Geronimo 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Stephen Mergenthaler, Ed Palen, Bob Starinsky Sept. 2003 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Mar 13, 2010 |
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Description A deceptively tricky off-width just right of the clean Bozeman Bullet face.
Climb up, and through the tenuous off-width, clipping 2 bolts. Gain access to the ledge below the steep right-facing corner. Climb this, then head up and right to another steep corner. Use large incut buckets, and surprisingly good feet to gain access to the upper face. Continue to the top and shared anchor with Bozeman Bullet.
Location The all-too-obvious off-width to the right of Bozeman Bullet.
Protection Standard rack up to #3.
By Greg Kuchyt
Mar 22, 2010
| There is a fun variation to this route that takes the hand crack through the obvious roof to the right of the ledge 2/3 of the way up. The Lawyer/Haas book has this at 5.9, but for me it felt harder as the described "perfect hand crack" ended up being a weird size for my hands. Bring #1 and #2 C4 size pieces for the roof crack. |
By John Richardson
From: Greenfield, Ma
Apr 3, 2011
| skip the two bolts with your #5 and #6 C4's :-) |
By Nick Weinberg
From: Albany, NY
Apr 8, 2011
| Definitely do the 5.9 handcrack through the roof to the right. Better finish, well protected, and really just one move. |
By Kevin Heckeler
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.8+
| Did the 5.8 roof crack, and the moves are pretty stiff. Thinking more like 5.8+, and the lead who climbed through the 5.9 variation thought it was much tougher (like 5.10-something). |
By Nick Weinberg
From: Albany, NY
Nov 21, 2011
| Its easier (for me) than the roof on Moby Grape(5.8). Perfect hands with a sinker constriction once you pull it that is super secure. But I have relatively small hands. |
By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Jul 12, 2012
rating: 5.8
| having a four and a five C4 arent necessary but its fun to use them on this climb. |
By kenr
Jul 27, 2012
| My hands are larger, so it took some fiddling to get a jam (sort of a thumb cam?) I felt solid on in the high crux bulge on the main route.
? Harder than 5.8 ? I'd say either you can get a jam with your right hand solid enough to hold you for a moment on the overhang while you grab with your left -- or you cannot. If you cannot, then I guess it's way harder than 5.8 (? or you just stick a cam into the crack higher up and grab its sling ?) |
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