Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Bouldering
MSR Hubba Hubba Tent - 2 Person

$329.99 30% off

$230.99

at AlsSports

1    more...
Black Diamond Venom Ice Axe - Adze

$149.95 24% off

$112.94

at E-OMC

1    more...
La Sportiva Tarantulace Climbing Shoe

$79.95 20% off

$63.96

at Backcountry

   more...
Wild Country Helium Friend

$68.95 20% off

$54.95

at USOutdoorStr

828    more...
The North Face Verto S4K GTX Boot - Men's

$349.95 20% off

$279.96

at Backcountry

   more...
Gregory Fury 32 Backpack - 1831-2075cu in

$128.95 29% off

$90.27

at DeptOfGoods

19    more...
Grivel G22 Front Parts X2

$129.90 24% off

$97.43

at Backcountry

   more...
Speed 40 Backpack - Vapor Gray S

$129.95 25% off

$97.46

at CampSaver

4    more...
Omega Pacific Link Cam

$97.45 20% off

$77.96

at Backcountry

3    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Select Route:
A River Runs Through It 
Avalanche 
Balls and Chains 
Between the Tears 
Big Bird (aka Fountaine Bleau boulders) 
Bloody Fingers R Us 
Boobie Direct 
Butt Crystal 
Cave Direct 
Cobbler's Delight 
Crudely Painted Arete 
Crudely Painted Not So Funny Folk Art 
Dingus 
Distance Overhang 
Distance Overhang Sit Start 
Dr. Love's Rock 
Dry Ice 
Dry Spell 
Fountain Lip Traverse 
From Concentrate 
Gerbil in a Chute 
Gold Digger 
Hoagie in Heaven 
Intense Incense 
Isotropical 
Lady Luck 
Levitate 
Little Brown Jug Wall 
Little Devil 
Mono-opoly 
Morning Wood Boulder 
Nappy Rooted 
New & Corporate Playground, The 
Nine Lives Arete 
No Approach Boulder 
North Sentry Crack 
Orange South Face 
Penthouse, The 
Phallic Rock 
Phallic Rock West Face 
Phillip's Problem 
Plate South Face R. 
Pleasure By Ambush 
Pop Rocks 
Prowerful Arete 
Punani 
Raise Your Rifles 
Rocket Ship 
Rounded Prow 
Slab Master 
Snow Shoes 
Sometimes Wet 
Spaceman Spiff 
Suckerpunch 
Super Mario 
Surfer's Paradise 
Trailside Boulder 
Treehugger 
Troll 
Unknown- Slab Route 
Up Staged 
V0 
Wacky Waving Inflatable Flailing Armed Tube Man 
West Face Crack 
World's Slopiest Boulder - NW Corner, The 
World's Slopiest Boulder- South Face, The 

Gerbil in a Chute 

V3-4

   
1,263 page views
Good page?   

Type: Boulder
Consensus: V3-4 [details]
FA: Tom Hanson, mid '80s
Submitted By: cstorms on Mar 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Chris in the beginning of Gerbil in a Chute.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up the dihedral: Start by reaching up to a decent, sharp sidepull with your left hand, right hand on a cobble...step up however you can onto the obvious good foothold at about waist height...get both feet up into the dihedral...fun technical climbing in the chute and a fun little jump move to the lip. Aptly named.


Location 

On the Punani boulder (see directions) directly to the right of Punani.


Protection 

Perfect landing, a pad and a spotter for the topout is nice.



Photos of Gerbil in a Chute Slideshow Add Photo
Setting up for the lip on Gerbil. Beautiful Winter/Spring day in the wood (3/8/08).

Setting up for the lip on Gerbil. Beautiful Winter...

Hitting the lip. Match after this and then finish off the problem up and to the left.

Hitting the lip. Match after this and then finish ...

"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva.

"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva.

"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva 2.

"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva 2.


Comments on Gerbil in a Chute Add Comment
Show which comments
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jan 12, 2009

Does anyone know anything about the problem directly right of this one with a huge move from the large hueco to a pocket up left and a crimp next to it, then to the lip???

By Tom Hanson
Jan 13, 2009

Right hand variant to Gerbils?
I do recall a hideous top out mantle.

By j.jaeger
Feb 24, 2009

Re: above... I've been slacking on the "Castlewood bouldering blog" I started, but I suppose I'll start to just enter stuff here....

Right of Gerbil about 6 feet is a sinker pocket at about chest height. Start here, pull on, and make a huge move back left to a sidepull pocket on an arete feature. Then, a crimpy pocket rightward on the face, and a huge huck to the horrid lip. This was a Marcelo Montalva project for about a year and he finished it recently, early February 2009, dubbing it "The Mangler".

Aside from the dyno, the span on the first move, as described, is prohibitive for the short. I suspect that it can be done by letting go of the starting hold and somehow catching your swing with some clever dynamic foot dancing.... In any event, I suspect that shorties with dyno skills will prefer to start as for Gerbil in a chute and just cut right at the arete pocket to skip the lurch move and keep the cool power huck of doom.

I posted a couple photos of Celo's heartbreaking robbery last spring....

By j.jaeger
May 21, 2009

Around the right arete from Gerbils is a crouching or sit start problem.... It starts on two positive holds low. Power up to left hand sloping edge, then toss or hook your way to a mega jug before loose and juggy finish. I was told V7 and I suppose it could be. Anyone have a name for this one? It's certainly not classic, but worth doing when at the block.