Gerbil in a Chute V3-4
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| Type: | Boulder |
| Consensus: | V3-4 [details] |
| FA: | Tom Hanson, mid '80s |
| Submitted By: | cstorms on Mar 14, 2008 |
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Chris in the beginning of Gerbil in a Chute.
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Description Climb up the dihedral: Start by reaching up to a decent, sharp sidepull with your left hand, right hand on a cobble...step up however you can onto the obvious good foothold at about waist height...get both feet up into the dihedral...fun technical climbing in the chute and a fun little jump move to the lip. Aptly named.
Location On the Punani boulder (see directions) directly to the right of Punani.
Protection Perfect landing, a pad and a spotter for the topout is nice.
Setting up for the lip on Gerbil. Beautiful Winter...
| Hitting the lip. Match after this and then finish ...
| "The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva.
| "The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva 2.
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| Comments on Gerbil in a Chute |
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By half-pad-mini-jug From: crauschville Jan 12, 2009
| Does anyone know anything about the problem directly right of this one with a huge move from the large hueco to a pocket up left and a crimp next to it, then to the lip??? |
By Tom Hanson Jan 13, 2009
| Right hand variant to Gerbils? I do recall a hideous top out mantle. |
By j.jaeger Feb 24, 2009
| Re: above... I've been slacking on the "Castlewood bouldering blog" I started, but I suppose I'll start to just enter stuff here.... Right of Gerbil about 6 feet is a sinker pocket at about chest height. Start here, pull on, and make a huge move back left to a sidepull pocket on an arete feature. Then, a crimpy pocket rightward on the face, and a huge huck to the horrid lip. This was a Marcelo Montalva project for about a year and he finished it recently, early February 2009, dubbing it "The Mangler". Aside from the dyno, the span on the first move, as described, is prohibitive for the short. I suspect that it can be done by letting go of the starting hold and somehow catching your swing with some clever dynamic foot dancing.... In any event, I suspect that shorties with dyno skills will prefer to start as for Gerbil in a chute and just cut right at the arete pocket to skip the lurch move and keep the cool power huck of doom. I posted a couple photos of Celo's heartbreaking robbery last spring.... |
By j.jaeger May 21, 2009
| Around the right arete from Gerbils is a crouching or sit start problem.... It starts on two positive holds low. Power up to left hand sloping edge, then toss or hook your way to a mega jug before loose and juggy finish. I was told V7 and I suppose it could be. Anyone have a name for this one? It's certainly not classic, but worth doing when at the block. |
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