Gerbil in a Chute
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Climb up the dihedral: Start by reaching up to a decent, sharp sidepull with your left hand, right hand on a cobble...step up however you can onto the obvious good foothold at about waist height...get both feet up into the dihedral...fun technical climbing in the chute and a fun little jump move to the lip. Aptly named.
On the Punani boulder (see directions) directly to the right of Punani.
Perfect landing, a pad and a spotter for the topout is nice.
Setting up for the lip on Gerbil. Beautiful Winter...
Hitting the lip. Match after this and then finish ...
"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva.
"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva 2.
|Comments on Gerbil in a Chute
Jan 12, 2009
Does anyone know anything about the problem directly right of this one with a huge move from the large hueco to a pocket up left and a crimp next to it, then to the lip???
|By Tom Hanson|
Jan 13, 2009
Right hand variant to Gerbils?
I do recall a hideous top out mantle.
Feb 24, 2009
Re: above... I've been slacking on the "Castlewood bouldering blog" I started, but I suppose I'll start to just enter stuff here....
Right of Gerbil about 6 feet is a sinker pocket at about chest height. Start here, pull on, and make a huge move back left to a sidepull pocket on an arete feature. Then, a crimpy pocket rightward on the face, and a huge huck to the horrid lip. This was a Marcelo Montalva project for about a year and he finished it recently, early February 2009, dubbing it "The Mangler".
Aside from the dyno, the span on the first move, as described, is prohibitive for the short. I suspect that it can be done by letting go of the starting hold and somehow catching your swing with some clever dynamic foot dancing.... In any event, I suspect that shorties with dyno skills will prefer to start as for Gerbil in a chute and just cut right at the arete pocket to skip the lurch move and keep the cool power huck of doom.
I posted a couple photos of Celo's heartbreaking robbery last spring....
May 21, 2009
Around the right arete from Gerbils is a crouching or sit start problem.... It starts on two positive holds low. Power up to left hand sloping edge, then toss or hook your way to a mega jug before loose and juggy finish. I was told V7 and I suppose it could be. Anyone have a name for this one? It's certainly not classic, but worth doing when at the block.