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 ADVANCED
Southern Pillar
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Ambush T 
Appendicitis T 
Bizarre Grandiose T 
Block Party T 
Climbin' Punishment T 
Craving fo Pink T 
Daytripper T 
Disco Death March T 
Electric Chair T 
Fear of Flying T 
Gebhardt-Duffy T 
Great Chimney T 
Hidden Gem T,S 
Judgement Seat T 
Lemur, The T 
Point Man T 
Right Tope T 
Rolling Rock T 
Roy Gap Chimney's T 
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Stoney's T 
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Gebhardt-Duffy 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Gebhardt/Bob Duffy
Page Views: 1,247
Submitted By: MichaelE on Jul 25, 2007  with updates from Brian Malone

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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From Ecstasy

Description 

Terrific exposure and several steep sections make this an exciting and fairly stout 5.7. Rope drag is ridiculously bad, owing to several horizontal sections--there doesn't seem to be any way around this--and there is a considerable amount of loose rock. Also, we weren't really sure where to go after pitch four, when you reach the top of the main column, so we rapped off of fixed rings found on the side of the formation (which was kind of sketchy).

Location 

Begins at the bottom of the prominent and largest fin on the Southern Pillar. It's the closest bit of the formation to Roy Gap Road.

Protection 

Full rack. Rings at the top of the first pitch and some slings left around boulders after two and three. Big gear is helpful, but probably not necessary.


Photos of Gebhardt-Duffy Slideshow Add Photo
Watching the leader on the fourth pitch of Gephard...
Watching the leader on the fourth pitch of Gephard...
Looking up at the third pitch of Gephardt-Dufty fr...
Looking up at the third pitch of Gephardt-Dufty fr...
From Ecstasy
From Ecstasy
only had time for the first three pitches of Gebha...
only had time for the first three pitches of Gebha...

Comments on Gebhardt-Duffy Add Comment
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By Ben Annibali
From: Palmyra, Pennsylvania
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

When i got to the top it was covered in lichen and there were no bolts. My partner and i did a sketchy scramble up to a tree where we found some webbing around a tree. As we rappelled we ran into the worst bush you have ever seen while on rappel. Finally we reached the top of Climbin punishment where we could rap off of bolts. Over all the climb was great, i thought that the gear was kinda far apart on the last two pitches, but it is super exposed and fun. I call it a once and done climb.
By Schurman
Aug 5, 2010

Reminds me of climbing in the mountains. Fun route - adventurous. Rapoff the east side from the top (1-70 Meter rope will do it) and walk off back to the road - easy.

Some loose rock (though not terrible at all) but great exposure.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Feb 15, 2011

climbed this last fall. some loose rock and lots of popular routes below you, so be careful.
The exposure is terrific. The climbing just ok. The gear is fairly solid. Did not do the last pitch.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Apr 20, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Started on the right side for a harder, 5.8 variation (might actually be Rhododendron Corner). The rest was pretty consistent Seneca 5.7/7+.

From the bolts at the end of P1, I moved up into the chimney then out left onto the face and up to a small left-facing corner with an old pin (an easier corner with another old pin is further right). Straight up this and then right to the block with slings/cord. Seemed to be a consistent 5.7/8 pitch on mostly decent rock (if a little untraveled), avoiding the chimney with a lot of scary looking blocks and the face of the main column which looks like a loose bookshelf.

We rapped off the block at the end of the 2nd pitch, which as of 19APR has a strand of webbing and two cords with 3 rap rings. From this rap you'll reach another set of slings with one ring that are decent. Alternatively, move to climbers right from the second rap station along the ledge and locate the two-bolt anchor atop Right Tope.

About as adventure climbing as Seneca gets. Nice escape from the crowds. Will head back on a nicer day to finish it and top out. Questionable rock here and there. Use good judgement and be prepared for PG/PG13 climbing. Probably a good idea to take some bail webbing and a rap ring just in case.
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