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Southern Pillar
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Gephardt-Dufty 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,098
Submitted By: MichaelE on Jul 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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From Ecstasy

Description 

Terrific exposure and several steep sections make this an exciting and fairly stout 5.7. Rope drag is ridiculously bad, owing to several horizontal sections--there doesn't seem to be any way around this--and there is a considerable amount of loose rock. Also, we weren't really sure where to go after pitch four, when you reach the top of the main column, so we rapped off of fixed rings found on the side of the formation (which was kind of sketchy).


Location 

Begins at the bottom of the prominent and largest fin on the Southern Pillar. It's the closest bit of the formation to Roy Gap Road.


Protection 

Full rack. Rings at the top of the first pitch and some slings left around boulders after two and three. Big gear is helpful, but probably not necessary.



Photos of Gephardt-Dufty Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the third pitch of Gephardt-Dufty from the large belay shelf.
Looking up at the third pitch of Gephardt-Dufty fr...
Watching the leader on the fourth pitch of Gephardt-Dufty.
Watching the leader on the fourth pitch of Gephard...
From Ecstasy
From Ecstasy
Comments on Gephardt-Dufty Add Comment
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By Ben Annibali
From: Palmyra, Pennsylvania
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

When i got to the top it was covered in lichen and there were no bolts. My partner and i did a sketchy scramble up to a tree where we found some webbing around a tree. As we rappelled we ran into the worst bush you have ever seen while on rappel. Finally we reached the top of Climbin punishment where we could rap off of bolts. Over all the climb was great, i thought that the gear was kinda far apart on the last two pitches, but it is super exposed and fun. I call it a once and done climb.

By Schurman
Aug 5, 2010

Reminds me of climbing in the mountains. Fun route - adventurous. Rapoff the east side from the top (1-70 Meter rope will do it) and walk off back to the road - easy.

Some loose rock (though not terrible at all) but great exposure.

By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Feb 15, 2011

climbed this last fall. some loose rock and lots of popular routes below you, so be careful.
The exposure is terrific. The climbing just ok. The gear is fairly solid. Did not do the last pitch.