Climb overhanging layback crack to bookshelf ledge. Mantel onto ledge and climb blocky terrain to the top. This climb has a lot to offer despite it's size. A must do at Yonah.
Location
Located on the Second Overhang at the climbers right on top of the Main face. Obvious crack located left of .12b 2 bolt route called New Standards. Edges to Ledges is a good choice for an approach pitch but you can scramble down from the top or find one of the many easy 5th class ways up.
Protection
A BD #2 or similar size will protect the first few moves. The rest is easy to protect with 4 or so micro cams. I used black through yellow aliens. A few more pieces would sew it up. There is the potential for decking onto the slab due to the overhanging nature of this climb and the fact that the crux is low.
By Jeff Mekolites From: HOTlanta, GA May 1, 2008 rating: 5.9+
After climbing this route again, I have to say that there is no way this climb is 5.8...it might have been 5.8 in the '70's but it ain't 5.8 now...."warning, sandbag ahead"
Main Face
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