Climb the dihedral, then up and over a blocky section. Most build a belay here or continue up a short distance to a bolted belay. The second pitch climbs a slab to the base of the headwall, exit left to the top or rap from anchors here.
Location
Dihedral is located just past the colored routes on the main face and just before you get to the "cable area." Look for the obvious right-facing dihedral.
Protection
Standard gear. Look for bolted belays along the way. There are also great spots to build a belay as well.
This is a great route to get on if you are new to the trad game( or not new). I recommend doing it as one pitch to the bolted belay and then rapping, instead of belaying off gear at the first large ledge. The climbing to the head wall after the bolted belay is barely 5th class.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Sep 7, 2009 rating: 5.6
Fun route for the grade. Pro is thin on the start; I got my first piece in about 20' off the deck. After that, there's plenty of great placements on up to the anchors.
I don't know how most people start this route, but the namesake dihedral didn't have any nice crack to use down low, so I started on the slab to the right, which took me up to my first placement in the dihedral. The holds get more positive from there.
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