Frank puts his trust in friction as he leads Speci...
Description
A fine steep slab climb that demands good friction footwork.
Move up the steep face with sparse holds past three bolts. The crux is well protected by the first bolt; eases off somewhat between the second and third bolts.
Location
Down the trail right of the Army balance climbs; starts just right of Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds. Rap from the anchors.
Protection
Light rack; a couple of small cams before the first bolt are about all you can get. Bolted anchors shared by Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds.
By Paul Barnes From: Gainesville, Georgia Aug 3, 2008
Special Edition and Limited Edition now have a shared double bolt Fixe Ring anchor at about 30m. No need to bail left to the LSD anchors. Continue straight up trending just a bit right after the last bolt for a couple moves, get some good gear, and cruise to the new anchors. (60m rope required)
I climbed this today and did not see a third bolt. Did not see where one use to be either. Thin gear; the two smallest ball-nuts, 000 c3, and 00 c3 protect the start. A 0 c3 and .4 C4 will protect you to the anchors after passing two bolts.
If you are headed up to the Second Overhang you can do it easily in one pitch with a 60m rope.
Highly enjoyable lead
edit:The guide book also says 'three' bolts, must have been a typo. LSD has three bolts and starts in almost the same spot, maybe this caused a bit of confusion?
Yep, two bolts on the route, it's never had three. 1st bolt protects the mantle move, 2nd bolt you clip from the stance after doing the mantle. Going up and slightly right to the new anchor that's shared with Limited is indeed recommended unless you're passing that station and heading to the second overhang to do a route up there.
Just to clarify things, this is the first bolted route to the right of Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds. Its also the right most line featuring two bolts on this section of the wall.
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