This is probably the best route at Juliette and the best route in Middle GA. It's probably not technically the hardest but it's 20 feet of sustained power moves and lots of fun. It was originally rated as a 5.9+ if you top rope it and I'd put it at a V 4-5 if you boulder it. The FA is unknown but it's definitly the main attraction at Juliette. It's overhung for practically the entire length but the crux is in the middle. It gets juggier at the top. It's a must do if you are in the area.
Location
It's located on the right side of the main overhang. The start is up a bit on the obvious arching flake. Don't try to get to technical. Just warm up the guns and go for it.
Never been to this area, just a quick question- How can 5.9+ turn into V5 if you take the rope away? 5.9+ is closer to V0-. Rope or no rope, the grade is the same.
Don't get me wrong...I love Colorado...and I'm just kiddin' here, but how come every time someone questions a grade it's a dude from Colorado?
I know 5.9 doesn't equal a V5 but I didn't originally grade this route. I believe perhaps whoever did the FA gave it a 5.9. When I dug up the info that's what it was so I don't feel I should change it. I can tell you it's not a V0 though. The few folks I know that have climbed it have put it at V4-5 and I'm pretty comfortable with that. I'd rather just leave it a V grade but it is about 20' and some folks like to top rope it. I'm sure someone who hangs around the Georgia section probably knows more about the route then me and can probably provide more info.
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