This group of boulders is located on a peninsula at Lake Juliette between Macon and Forsyth. The internet has it that climbing here began back in the 80's with a group of Mercer college students. Lake Juliette is a 3,600 acre reservoir owned by Georgia Power. A coal fired power plant looms over the lake and is said to be the largest in the United States. It's a pretty impressive sight and if you are green sensitive it might be tough to look at. But don't worry, the water is probably cleaner here then any other lake in GA (seriously). The land surrounding the lake is part of the Rum Creek WMA (Wildlife Management Area) administered by the Georgia DNR. If you google Rum Creek WMA or Lake Juliette you can find out more info about both. There is a good bit of rock on the peninsula with a handful of them worth climbing. The rock quality is generally good and I believe it is sandstone or something similar.
Most of the problems here are overhung and provide a good workout. Most are short but there are some intersting routes with a few longer traverses. There are also possibly routes over the water. I'd advise a lot of caution though because there are old stumps and rocks under the water. When the lake is high they are hard to see. When the lake is low you can get to all of the shore line boulders withought getting wet. The top attraction here is a route called "Rock Till Ya Drop". It's a 20ft overhang that faces the lake. It's juggy and every move is a hard pull. Some top rope it and it was originally rated at a 5.9+. You can boulder it too but make sure you have a pad or two and some spotters. The crux is in the middle but if you fall topping out you could break something easy. There are probably some routes on this main boulder that still wait an FA.
Overall it's a fun place to get a work out in and it's quicker to get to than Hitchiti if you are in the Macon area. If you visit please remember to clean up after yourself and be respectful. The rocks are on public land in the WMA but there is no reason to draw any negative attention to climbing here.
Getting There
Best bet is to google Lake Juliette and look at a map. If coming north out of Macon the easiest was is to take GA Hwy 87 (Riverside Dr.) up to Dames Ferry Rd (Hwy 18). You can also take Hwy 18 from Forsyth which should be exit 185 on interstate 75.
There are two ways to get to the boulders. Oneth by land, two-ith by sea...(or lake). If you want to park and walk to the boulders then check out the lat long coordinates on this page to see what peninsula the rocks are on. Just a few hundred yards west of that peninsula you will see what looks like a pull out on the lake side of the road. There is a sign in the bushes that says it's Rum Creek WMA and no vehicles are allowed past that point. Do not park anywhere else! I believe it is fine to park here if you act responsibly. You can follow the shore line around east until you find the rocks (if the lake is low enough). The other way is to go back east down the road until you see a trail (the water will be really close to the road). Stay on the trail or close to the lake. There is private property around. Please be respectful and don't ruin it for others. There are plenty of do not park here signs on the road. Don't park there. Also on the other side of the road is hunting club land. Hum the Deliverance tune in your head to remind your self not to park on that side.
The other more scenic way to get to the boulders is by boat. A canoe or kayak would be fine. If you continue north on Hwy 87 you will find the Rum Creek WMA boat ramp and parking area on the left. It's 3 bucks to park in the lot and use the ramp. Again use the lat long to pinpoint the right peninsula. It's really just a straight paddle across the lake. It takes about 30 minutes in a canoe to get to the rocks. It's a nice paddle across and you don't have to worry about where your car is parked. There is also a campgound near the boat ramp.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Juliette Boulders:
This is probably the best route at Juliette and the best route in Middle GA. It's probably not technically the hardest but it's 20 feet of sustained power moves and lots of fun. It was originally rated as a 5.9+ if you top rope it and I'd put it at a V 4-5 if you boulder it. The FA is unknown but it's definitly the main attraction at Juliette. It's overhung for practically the entire length but the crux is in the middle. It gets juggier at t...[more]Browse More Classics in GA
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