Buzzard Breath 

this was my first lead ever. good climb. 60m rope allows for easy top rope or rappel. a .75 or 1 bd cam is nice for top overlap, but i usually bring just draws.

This route, now that it's clean, is more like 5.8 than the original 5.9 rating.

As to the description, there is no "work left to the anchors", but my descriptions are goofy sometimes too :)

BB is the first (left most) bolted route on the main face of the Buzzard Wall, to the right of the gulley that separates the Buzzard wall from the Slab. Climb up some sandy flat ledges to the ledge under the bulge, move up through the bulge past a couple of bolts, climb some slab moves past two more bolts and the wall gets steeper, move slightly left then straight up on big holds for a bit to a bolt in a dish, continue up to the exit bulge that's split by a crack (gear), pull that to the top and a pair of fixe ring anchors. As previously posted you can TR or rap with a 60m rope from these anchors. JJ

Oh sure...if I get the onsight of one of Jody's routes he downgrades it a full grade...nice... ;))))

I still think it's 5.9, just not near as 5.9 as Stranger than Friction.