Denmark makes the move onto the overhang as he lea...
Description
Another nice friction climb with a steep start that makes stick-clipping the first bolt a prudent choice.
Follow the steep face to a small overhang (pro can be placed here or in the small vertical crack below it). Continue up the right side of a big flake and onto gradually easier terrain to the top.
Location
About 50' right of Mikey's Mantle.
Protection
Mixed; some small to medium gear is needed to supplement the three bolts. Bolted anchors at the top.
I have never used a stick clip until the day I lead this climb. The ground drops away to the climbers right, so even though you only have to climb 10' to the first bolt, you'll fall 15' and roll/bounce another 10'.... over rocks. No ego that day. Great climb with pleasant moves and exciting but still (somewhat) safely spaced fixed pro.
By Chuck Parks From: Atlanta, GA Jan 6, 2009 rating: 5.9
There are now bolts and rings at the top of this climb. Head more or less straight up (maybe slightly left) from the last bolt to the final overhang. Pull the overhang at a weakness (you can get gear in here), and the bolts will be on the face just above.
Good deal on the anchor station, if it's in the right location. I was going to go back and fix that, just never did, I always belayed from the pine tree cluster after going through the weakness in the little overhang at the top. If the station is just over the overhang, directly below the pine tree cluster, it should be good to go. Hopefully it'll put you back on the ground with a 60 meter rope. It's way better than traversing over to the Frictionary anchors like I've seen some folks do.
We did this route last weekend and the ring anchors are just right. Thanks go out to whoever installed them. Also - I think this route should be rated 5.9+
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