Sharp granite bouldering. Years ago there was a TR competition but with the advent of modern crash pads, most people just boulder. Some problems can be high off the deck, but there is still plenty to do for those who don't bring an army of spotters and pads.
Most of the problems are slabs. There are, however, a few overhanging things around and a few nice crack problems as well. Supposedly, the boulders were pushed down at the head of a glacier years ago, remnants of the same rocks found throughout the hills of North Carolina.
The climbing is surrounded by a housing district. The boulders used to be twice as many, but many were blown up to make way for more development. Luckily, the Southeast Climbers Coalition (SECC) stepped in and bought the rest of the land that the rocks are on and saved what remains. Please stay on established trails and don't climb on private property.
Getting There
From Atlanta, drive west on I-20 to Fulton Industrial exit. Go south on this road until you can turn east onto Boat Rock Road at about 1.5 miles. Boulders are on the south side of the road. Parking is limited in the trees and is located at the climbers information kiosk. Approach time is 30 seconds to the Easy Crack area and 5 minutes to the Yellow Arete area.
Wrestle your way up to a heel hook and some miserable crimps at the front edge of the top. Work up and around to the right and reach the next set of crimps....[more]
By Justin Dansby From: Palmetto, GA Apr 16, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
Boat Rock Fire report. I visited Boat Rock yesterday(4/15) to find it has been partially burned by a fire this past weekend(?). It is still smoldering in areas and within the fire control barriers. There is a note at the kiosk stating unless you see fire outside of the barriers or flames spreading do not alert the authorities. If you do see any other fire activity please call 911. FYI.
I'm stoked this area finally was added. This ,to me, is the heart of the Atlanta climbing scene. There is no other place like it; high friction, small holds, big slabs, great crack....I mean cracks. It even made it into the Verm's book Stone Crusade.
This place is highly weather dependent. I climb here year round, but a lot of the problems will seem impossible during the humid/hot months. It is my impression that people either love or hate the bouldering here. As Eric mentioned there are not a lot of over hung boulders but the ones there are great, like The Paint Can SDS and Yellow arete to name a few. The slabs are exceptional and range from beginner to expert (Don't miss Dishes or Waves in Motion). And there is a great selection of cracks(Lost Digits, Cashmere, and Beam me up Scotty). If your foot work is bad prepare to buy new shoes cause this rock will shred your rubber if you skate. Also on the back of the Easy Crack boulder there are some good routes that can be easily top roped and at least one(to my knowledge) has been lead(the 5.9? in the middle).
Thanks to Brad Mcleod and others(sorry, I haven't met everyone who helped)for getting everyone together to save this place!
Great addition...been meaning to get around to it. I will get some photos and route info up on the website. Also, the annual float the boat boulder comp in coming up in January.
Woods Hill - I hear the SCC now is leasing this land. But, are we still crossing private property to get to it? I would like to add it, but don't want to if there are access issues.
Boat Rock
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