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 ADVANCED
George
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another for the Road 
Bloody Mary 
Crushed Velvet 
Curious George 
George 
George Direct 
George of the Jungle 
Hello McFly 
Last Call 
Lounge Lizards P1 
Lounge Lizards P2/3 
Lounge Lizards Variation 
Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack") 
Unsorted Routes:

George 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 3, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: George 5.9

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Description 

The formationís eponymous route is an exposed-feeling, exciting bit of climbing with good protection where needed.

From the lower, midpoint, bolted anchor on the east side climb out onto some large positive edges with no real opportunity for protection until ten feet or so from the belay (so donít fall). At this point follow the thin, corner crack up the overhanging bulge. The moves can be strenuous, but good nut placements and microcam placements abound which will ease the stress level (a #1 C3 fits quite well in one location).

Clip the bomber bolt and grunt over the top of the overhanging section. The rest of the climb is considerably easier on large, positive edges, which is a good thing because there is very little opportunity for protection (a #2 DMM Peenut is helpful).

Continue straight up, or bear left a little following a shallow, flaring almost-crack that has one opportunity where a #2 C4 sort-of fits.

Over the top onto interesting, smooth, and rounded quartzite. A 70m rope will get to the ground in a single rappel on the west side; a 60m rope will require two raps.


Location 

Climbs on the the north-facing bit of the George prow and continues on the east face. Start at the midpoint, bolted anchor on the east side, reachable via George Direct, pitch one of Lounge Lizards, or by scrambling farther to the east.


Protection 

Micro to medium nuts, micro cams, an optional hand-sized cam, one bolt, and bolted anchors top and bottom.



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