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George and Martha 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Karl Birkinkamp (?)
Page Views: 3,722
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Feb 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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near the anchor

Description 

This route is in the central/left part of the Stems and Seeds area. It is the 2nd crack to the right of the fairly obvious Seven Virgins and a Mule (5.7) chimney. An excellent handcrack with some faceholds that provide very nice stances for placing pro. It gets a little wide at the very top. This is the route to climb if you want to toprope Red M&Ms.

Protection 

Standard trad rack, mostly in the handcrack size with one bigger piece for the top (3" is good). There is a bolted anchor at the top that is shared with Red M&Ms.


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By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 16, 2009

This route is a lot harder than Air Guitar. It's just a lot more pumpy.
By Rafe
May 5, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This and Air Guitar are both great routes, must do's, and very similar. I could see them being .10's if you didn't have such a nice rest right before the wide end cruxes...You can plug a #4 from the rest and pretty much eliminate crux commitment too.
By Ethan Henderson
From: Silverdale, WA
Sep 18, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One of the best .10a's at the Coulee.

Jughaul cruise with a few jams up to the short OW section. Route is very clean.

I personally didnt find the bulk of this route harder than air guitar except for the short OW (4" cam useful) section on George and Martha is Harder than the End of Air Guitar.

Super good!
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 23, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A lot of jugs ease the steep crack climbing on this one.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 21, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This anchor had 1/4" chain, replaced with 3/8" chain in 2011 for everyones safety.
By Rohan Balakrishnan
Apr 14, 2014

I brought a #4 cam with me, but I couldn't find a good way to protect the offwidth section with it. A #3 cam at the base of the offwidth section produced an absolutely bomber placement that allowed me to make the final moves up to the chains. I had a ton of fun on this route :) I didn't use anything smaller than a 0.5.