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Turd Boulder aka Leaning Boulder
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Genital Grinder? Ground Control? 
Leaning Overhang 
Stanturd Route 

Genital Grinder? Ground Control? 

Hueco: V5-6 Font: 6C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Paul Glover, 1990s?
Page Views: 1,528
Submitted By: Murphymp on Sep 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Working to keep the butt off the ground.

Description 

This is a sweet problem, right next to the Stanturd Route. I think this and Stanturd Route are the best routes in the area. You start on two good ledges deep in the little cave where the boulder meets the side of the hill. You move out to the sloper with the crimp, then move up the the two finger incut slot. Then, pull up with your heel hook and reach your left hand up to the jagged pebbles on the slot. Put your feet up o the sloper than reach up and top out. Don't be fooled, the topout is a little harder than it looks, take your time.

Location 

Look at the Stanturd Route for info.

Protection 

Great setup, close to the ground and easy no spotter needed. 3 pads are great, just watch out for the dab when turning the bulge.


Photos of Genital Grinder? Ground Control? Slideshow Add Photo
Hork fighting to keep control on this tricky problem.
Hork fighting to keep control on this tricky probl...
Finishing the problem is not hard but takes some smart climbing.
Finishing the problem is not hard but takes some s...

Comments on Genital Grinder? Ground Control? Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Mar 28, 2011
rating: V7 7A+

FA Johnny Hork?
By Pinklebear
Mar 28, 2011

I'm pretty sure this is an old Paul Glover problem from the '90s: Genital Grinder.
By GypsyJoshua
From: Berkeley
Jul 15, 2014

Need a "spoiler alert" for the description =\