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Main Wall
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Genesis 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Steagall, Deidre Burton
Page Views: 2,771
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Sep 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Genesis (August 2013)

Description 

A stellar line and area classic. Probably one of the best 10s in the area, if not THE best.

Location 

Very first route on the leftmost side of the crag. Would be hard to miss as it's one of the only climbs on the Main Wall thats less than overhung!

Protection 

6 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Genesis Slideshow Add Photo
Allison On-sighting Genesis, 5.10d
Allison On-sighting Genesis, 5.10d
The approach to Genesis (May 2013)
BETA PHOTO: The approach to Genesis (May 2013)
Crux
Crux

Comments on Genesis Add Comment
Show which comments
By WSnyder
Oct 25, 2006

One of the best climbs in the canyon regardless of the grade.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 8, 2006

100% agreed!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 2, 2007

Deidre replaced one of the two shut anchors on 3/31/07 but the other is still worn and needs replacement. This route gets a lot of traffic. Please on this route and all routes - do not run the rope directly through the anchor for toproping or lowering. Use quickdraws for TR and have the last person fish through and rappel.
By Allison Fritz
From: Los Alamos, New Mexico
Jun 2, 2007

A Jack's must!
By noburu
From: Flagstaff
Aug 1, 2007

That darn last corner up top has killed my red-point both times...this weekend...you're mine!!!
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jun 13, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A quibble with the OP's wording: I would not characterize Genesis as "less than overhung". Maybe "less overhung" was the intent? Regardless, a fine route I find more pumpy than many of the 11s in Jacks.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 22, 2012

Needs washing and scrubbing as it's getting slimy. Fun nonetheless.