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Church Wall
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Castles in the Sand T 
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Genesis T 

Genesis 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: M. Hill
Page Views: 2,053
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Leah Sandvoss on Genesis (5.10-), Church Wall, Sed...

Description 

Start in a shallow groove which protects with a medium stopper and then 0 Metolius TCU. Mantle out of the groove and follow easy rock to the base of the large left facing corner that makes up the bulk of Genesis. Stem and jam your way up the fingers to hands corner to a two bolt rap anchor on a sloping ledge. This route continues up from here, but most climbers only complete the first pitch.

Location 

Genesis is the furthest right hand route on the Church Wall. It is located at the top of the approach gully. The bulk of this route climbs a large left facing corner system.

Descent is by rappel from a two bolt anchor.

Protection 

1 x 0 TCU (Purple - Metolius Sizes)/Blue Alien
2 x 1 TCU (Blue)/Green Alien
2 x 2 TCU (Yellow)/Yellow Alien
2 x .5 Camalot
2 x .75 Camalot
2 x 1 Camalot
2 x 2 Camalot
1 x 3 Camalot
Medium to Large Stoppers
Slings and Draws


Photos of Genesis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Really fun laybacking, stemming and some chimney s...
Really fun laybacking, stemming and some chimney s...
Rock Climbing Photo: CrackMD approaching the hands through a bulge sect...
CrackMD approaching the hands through a bulge sect...
Rock Climbing Photo: The approach
The approach
Rock Climbing Photo: Genesis
Genesis
Rock Climbing Photo: Really fun laybacking, stemming and some chimney s...
Really fun laybacking, stemming and some chimney s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the main church spire wall.
Looking up at the main church spire wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Approach to Genesis
The Approach to Genesis
Rock Climbing Photo: The approach
The approach
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the Church Spires
View of the Church Spires
Rock Climbing Photo: Really fun laybacking, stemming and some chimney s...
Really fun laybacking, stemming and some chimney s...
Rock Climbing Photo: The approach
The approach
Rock Climbing Photo: Genesis follows the corner, with the anchor bolts ...
Genesis follows the corner, with the anchor bolts ...

Comments on Genesis Add Comment
Show which comments
By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Jan 31, 2011

The second pitch is good. If anything it suffers from neglect. We trundled off a few loose chunks. As of now it only has one bolt at the anchor.
By Eric Foster
From: Columbus, GA
Mar 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Does the 2nd pitch need an extra bolt still? I would go up there and put one in as well as trundle everything off of it with a crowbar.
By Liz Gehret
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 26, 2016

I brought a 0 (master cam) to protect the first moves, but then all I used were doubles of .5-.75 and singles from 1-3. Fun route!

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