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Generator Station
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Conductor Crack TR 
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Generator Crack T,TR 

Generator Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 6,456
Submitted By: Aaron S on Apr 26, 2007

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Chicken is pretty good at Leavittation

Photo by J...

Description 

How is this route not on here yet? This is the classic "Let's go flail on an off width since we're in Yosemite" climb. There is literally no approach and it is super easy to TR. So if you want to try out a 5.10 ow in Yosemite, throw on a toprope and commence struggling. Most people Iíve talked to seem to think the bottom section is the crux but I donít think itís too bad if you have some basic leavitation technique. Transitioning into the squeeze up higher however, is a grunt any way I know to do it.


Location 

On the south side of the 140, a few miles west of the junction with the 120. Look for the old generator station.


Protection 

Easy TR off of a couple bolts. Leading it would require a big bro or two as most of it is too big for cams.



Photos of Generator Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Chicken throws some wings <br /> <br />Photo by Jacon
Chicken throws some wings

Photo by Jacon
The beast at night
The beast at night
Steve in the squeeze
Steve in the squeeze
Trying to keep lunch down.
Trying to keep lunch down.
Just in case you wanted know what the place looked like from the road
BETA PHOTO: Just in case you wanted know what the place looked...
The expression says "Fun".
The expression says "Fun".
Far away night shot. We put a big light inside the crack at the bottom
Far away night shot. We put a big light inside the...
Martin from Churmany looking forward to 50' of 5.Fun
Martin from Churmany looking forward to 50' of 5.F...
Yep, I'm fully enveloped.  That's the reality.
Yep, I'm fully enveloped. That's the reality.
Comments on Generator Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 26, 2007

THE crack to train for valley OW and squeeze. Hits every bad size as it gradually widens from off fists/hand stacks. Potentially humiliating, always entertaining, and a serious full body workout. Hand stacks, foot stacks, arm bars, chicken wings, knee locks, heel toes...you get a chance to use everything on this one. Nice hang spot at the base right next to the river. Take care at the horn/flake structure up high on the left, it flexes a bit and would be bad news for the belayer if it pulls.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 1, 2007

This thing is obscene! You have to love it. If Generator Crack were a person, you ask? I'm thinking 'Hacksaw' Jim Duggan. Maybe the Kathy Bates character from 'Misery'. Or the beast from 'The Host'.

Five stars.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007

Generator Crack ate my car keys! Yes, once while setting up a TR they fell out of my pocket at the worst possible moment, jangling down into the crack about 20 feet. After peering down for about 10 seconds I realized they were irretrievable. By an amazing coincidence, I had another set of keys in my pack so disaster was avoided. Still, the inside of the crack probably holds all sorts of treasures.

By Nathan Furman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 3, 2007

This thing is so burly! I got my foot stuck doing a heel/tow near the top and couldn't get it out. I tried wrenching it free by lifting my heel, which just made the pain worse. Ultimately I untied my shoe and was able to get my foot out.

I wanna go back...

By Andrew Schaeffer
Aug 23, 2007

This climb left me with a ton of scratches on practically every major extension of my body. In spite of this I quite enjoyed conquering it the second time around. The trick at the beginning seems to be to use the tree to bypass the narrower part of the crack at the very bottom of the run. From there I stacked my feet, pushed up the crack, and locked my shoulder and arm and repeated. It gets way easier after having gone 80% of the way. You simply contort your body into the position a cheerleader would make when she (or he) would represent the letter "H"and scoot up the crack.

Bottom line: Find some good climbing clothes for this because it left me with a bunch of scabs.

By Aaron S
May 27, 2008

"The trick at the beginning seems to be to use the tree to bypass the narrower part of the crack "

Wha???

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bottom section goes well with hand stacks and a calf jam. Once you're high enough to shove a leg in, you can do a double-fisted hand stack for a couple of moves before climbing all the way inside! If you have thoughtful footwork you can take your time and rest throughout this part (e.g. once your thigh is inside you can tuck the foot back outside the crack for a bomber knee jam rest).

I've found the best way around the projecting flake is to tunnel inside. I didn't believe I could fit, and I still have trouble unsticking myself at times, but if you fight the urge to panic you can eventually wriggle your way up into the squeeze chimney.

So far as I've played around I think the easiest way to climb this is by switching sides a couple of times. It's not too hard to turn around at the right spots. I start with my right leg so that I can be right-side in on the lower chicken-winging (the edge you grab seems better this way). Halfway up the chicken-winging/arm-barring fun I rotate left-side in.

BTW, what do people think of the projecting fin 2/3 up? It sounded pretty hollow to me and I could feel it vibrate. Perhaps the belayer should choose a strategic position below?

By Matt Henry
Apr 18, 2013

Great on a wet/drizzly day as the climb is overhung and shelters you from the weather. Plus you'll generate plenty of body heat grunting up it.