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Generation Gap 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Storm, Stuart Ruckman, and Gordon Douglass 1988
Page Views: 1,436
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 24, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Generation Gap

Description 

Just right of Goodro's Wall is a glass surface that someone decided was climbable. This route actually start in the gully to the right, and does a hand traverse along the obvious crack halfway up. Upon reaching the piton hidden in the crack, start to climb up the right-angling weaknesses/ crack, past a "lost" micro-nut, and continue to a thin finger ledge. From here launch into a couple of rightward lunges to good 2-3 finger ledges and pump out the climb. Not too technical, just tough on the fingers and almost no feet.


Protection 

2 draws for the anchor (Goodro's Wall). Micro-nuts for the lead.



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By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

alittle chossy at the top. cool movz

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Oct 10, 2007

How hard do you guys think this is? It seems kind of soft at .12b, especially compared to Big in Japan. I also added a short loop of webbing to the first fixed pin, since a biner clipped directly into the pin was loading over the edge of the hand traverse a bit. No micro nuts needed as far as I can tell, just a couple draws and small TCUs. Wiggling in micro gear any higher than the obvious blue TCU would be way too hard I think. Still getting my nerve up for the redpoint...

By tenesmus
Oct 10, 2007

Felt harder than BiJ to me. The gear is there but pumper. Rate it after you place some gear on it.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Oct 10, 2007

Yeah maybe I'm being premature. A friend of mine just mentioned that he thought it was really soft, more like .11d, so that got me wondering. Hopefully I'll redpoint the thing soon, so I'll have a good idea then.

By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 24, 2008

The topo photo is somewhat misleading. This is a contrivance, but Gen Gap does not use any holds on Goodro's. There is a thin network of cracks just right of GW. Traverse in from the right, climb directly up via thin cracks and face holds. Do it this way (FA style) while putting in all the gear. Legit 12b.