Generation Gap 5.12b
| 1,206 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | John Storm, Stuart Ruckman, and Gordon Douglass 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jun 24, 2004 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: Generation Gap
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Just right of Goodro's Wall is a glass surface that someone decided was climbable. This route actually start in the gully to the right, and does a hand traverse along the obvious crack halfway up. Upon reaching the piton hidden in the crack, start to climb up the right-angling weaknesses/ crack, past a "lost" micro-nut, and continue to a thin finger ledge. From here launch into a couple of rightward lunges to good 2-3 finger ledges and pump out the climb. Not too technical, just tough on the fingers and almost no feet.
Protection 2 draws for the anchor (Goodro's Wall). Micro-nuts for the lead.
| Comments on Generation Gap |
|
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.12b
| alittle chossy at the top. cool movz |
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Oct 10, 2007
| How hard do you guys think this is? It seems kind of soft at .12b, especially compared to Big in Japan. I also added a short loop of webbing to the first fixed pin, since a biner clipped directly into the pin was loading over the edge of the hand traverse a bit. No micro nuts needed as far as I can tell, just a couple draws and small TCUs. Wiggling in micro gear any higher than the obvious blue TCU would be way too hard I think. Still getting my nerve up for the redpoint... |
By tenesmus
Oct 10, 2007
| Felt harder than BiJ to me. The gear is there but pumper. Rate it after you place some gear on it. |
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Oct 10, 2007
| Yeah maybe I'm being premature. A friend of mine just mentioned that he thought it was really soft, more like .11d, so that got me wondering. Hopefully I'll redpoint the thing soon, so I'll have a good idea then. |
By Drew Bedford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 24, 2008
| The topo photo is somewhat misleading. This is a contrivance, but Gen Gap does not use any holds on Goodro's. There is a thin network of cracks just right of GW. Traverse in from the right, climb directly up via thin cracks and face holds. Do it this way (FA style) while putting in all the gear. Legit 12b. |
|
RSS Feed
3 more...
