...on the worst rock? I'm looking for people's votes for the best routes on the worst rock, and the most climbed choss piles, pure rock or mixed routes. Any ideas?

Superstition Mtns, AZ

Tons of routes, tons of choss, and tons of untapped potential.

Garden of the Gods comes to mind. Super soft rock. Lots of great routes!

Eldo

but probably the Black is the hands down winner

the army route in north cheyenne canyon. Really fun for a 5.5, but you can dig out the hand holds and then put them where you want them.

Colorado.

Ancient Art in the Fisher Towers is one of my favorite climbs. I guess it's relatively clean thanks to all the traffic it gets, but it's still more mud than stone. I can't even imagine how scary the first ascent must have been.

Let's get more specific... we all know the Black has bad rock, but I'm asking for the best/most climbed routes with the worst rock. Like the Scenic Cruise pretty much has no bad rock. I was just in the Poser's lounge and that is some great climbing with HORRENDOUS rock, you get so much s#¡+ in your eyes from all the crumbling that goes on.

I would say in the Black, the Southern Arete has the worst rock of any route I've climbed, but it's probably my favorite route there. The actual climbing is super fun and varied, despite the rock quality--all sizes of cracks from fingers to chimney, roofs, cracks, etc.

One other that comes to mind is Turnkorner at Lumpy--has the worst rock of any route I've done there, but may be the best (and is one of the most sought-after) routes there. Some of the best climbing is on the worst rock--exciting face climbing on flexing flakes that you can pull down but not out on.

I'm sure there's some candidates at Rifle.

The Crescent Moon Buttress at the Culo Del Gato near El Potrero Chico. The route is 8 pitches of either very loose or very sharp rock but you get to climb over a natural arch, do a tyrolean traverse and a wild pendulum.

Not following the rules exactly but Banks Lake, WA has some pretty awesome routes on granite that crumbles in sand size chunks onto your belayer constantly for the entire climb. An entire refrigerator sized block with a bolt shifted as a friend made his way up.

Maybe some of the rock routes on Cascade Volcanoes. Something like curtis ridge on mt rainier.

Many Canadian Rockies faces seem to be notorious for horrible rock, but they are some of the most coveted routes on the continent.

Yeah, I'll say ditto for the Cascades.

This pic is from the summit block on Three Finger Jack, in Oregon. My buddy Mike isn't roped up cuz there aren't any anchors that would hold anyway!

The last bit TFJ - Mike Dean 3rd classing 5.easy with quite a bit of exposure on a very warm day. Submitted By: YDPL8S on Apr 1, 2009

This is a regular occurrence at Deep Creek in Spokane, WA one of my favorite areas.

deep creek choss Submitted By: Andrew C on Nov 3, 2009

Me on The Roach 5.11a Submitted By: Andrew C on Oct 19, 2009