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By Agent Chumley
From Denver, CO
Jul 25, 2008
Dragonfly @ Horsetooth, Photo by John M.

The new issue of Rock&Ice has a picture of some kid climbing an 11c in BC and getting creative with the clip. Someone should let him know he doesn't have to die if he falls if he would only run the rope around his leg correctly. Interesting choice for a cover shot.

By WeBeJammon
From Laramie, WY
Jul 25, 2008
getting ready to hang dog while trying to lead something that is way out of my league.  like a 5.8.

Agent Chumley wrote:
The new issue of Rock&Ice has a picture of some kid climbing an 11c in BC and getting creative with the clip. Someone should let him know he doesn't have to die if he falls if he would only run the rope around his leg correctly. Interesting choice for a cover shot.

I have had the old testies take a fall before, and it ain't fun.

By Agent Chumley
From Denver, CO
Aug 1, 2008
Dragonfly @ Horsetooth, Photo by John M.

Looks like if he blows the clip he'll invert and go head-first into the rock.

By manuel rangel
From tempe, az
Aug 2, 2008
I loved the Needles of the <br />Southern Sierra.  The route is Don Juan Wall 11b, this shot was taken by a hard woman just before my manly fall.

Bad fall potential but you never know, maybe he did it for the camera and feels comfy on the route. I just pictured the same thing, flipping headfirst into the wall below if he blew it. Scary.

By Zed
From Gotham City
Aug 3, 2008

If he fell with his back still to the wall, and didn't get inverted before the rope became taught, I wouldn't even want to see the potential damage that the rope would do to his groin and torso.

By Tony Bubb
From Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2008
Even when the lights are too low and funky to see the walls at Red Rocks, cool sights abound. We have no idea what so confused the growth of this agave. Photo by Tony Bubb 12/02.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tony_bubb/105938869

'Nuff said about rope behind the legs?

By metrozen
From tucson, az
Aug 4, 2008
profile pic

Right there with you guys. The idea of it has been haunting me for three days.

By Mike
From Phoenix
Aug 4, 2008
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.

When I first saw the title of this thread I thought yet another person had covered the song "Spooky" by the Atlanta Rhythm Section, and clicked on it hoping to get a link to download the song.

Oh well. Back on topic, the picture on the cover is indeed spooky, and it is silly & even borderline irresponsible of the mag to use it. That said, visually it is a stunning picture.

By Tradster
Aug 4, 2008

If he were to fall: major dental work or gene pool clean up.

By metrozen
From tucson, az
Aug 4, 2008
profile pic

Anyone know if R&I has gotten any flak over this? I am sort of the side of calling it a tremendously poor choice for a cover shot, "creativity" aside. Lots of noobs get a big stoke off that mag, maybe one or two might get all monkey see, monkey do.

By Tony Bubb
From Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2008
Even when the lights are too low and funky to see the walls at Red Rocks, cool sights abound. We have no idea what so confused the growth of this agave. Photo by Tony Bubb 12/02.

metrozen wrote:
Lots of noobs get a big stoke off that mag, maybe one or two might get all monkey see, monkey do.

Eh... if leaders are already aware of the potential problem, this picture won't risk making it seem OK. If they are unaware of the problem, they won't notice it anyway because it won't seem strange to them.
Worst I see happening here is that this generates discussion and raises awareness. Best thing would be that R&I puts a note out in teh next mag about the danger and puts a note in the "tech tips" type section describing it...
I'll alert Jeff Jackson to this page.

By Jeff Jackson
Aug 5, 2008

Hi Folks, I'm the editor at Rock and Ice and I just wanted to weigh in on our cover choice for No. 171. I think all of your points are valid. The kid is gonna face plant if he blows it, or at least twang his crotch (or worse, ouch!)but it is undeniably a stunning and memorable image that takes text and looks great on the newsstand or coffee table. How do we balance aesthetics and our responsibility to present safe climbing practices? That's a tough one and I think you all are raising interesting points in this discussion. I'd argue that clipping is always risky, especially when you are at the second, or even third piece of pro. When you pull out slack, you're exposing yourself to a possible groundfall if you slip. What's imperative is finding a stance from which you won't fall and I think that's what Will is doing here. Though it looks sketchy to the observer, Will successfully made the clip and moved through the potentially dangerous situation in the same way we all expose ourselves to "potential" each time we tie into the sharp end.

That said, I'm all about raising awareness. I edit the Letters section of the mag and I'd be happy to publish a critical letter pointing out the risk of Will's stance and a description of proper technique. Would somebody please write me a letter to publish? jjackson@bigstonepub.com

Thanks for the feedback and for letting me chime in.

Happy Climbing!

Jeff Jackson

By metrozen
From tucson, az
Aug 5, 2008
profile pic

Thanks for the comment, Jeff. It is a great photo, and it helps to know a little more about your decision to use it.

You'll probably get more than a few letters from the MP crowd!

-DG

By Tevis Blom
From Boulder
Aug 5, 2008
TBlom

What we need are more solo photos!

By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Aug 5, 2008
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth. <br /><br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve. <br /><br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger.<br />

Caylor wasn't bad; but I was looking for stone nudes, Jeff, not stoned nudes.


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