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Rock Climbing Safety Survey

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By Bryan Gohn
From Irvine, CA
Nov 5, 2009
Red Rock under winter's white.

Paul Shultz wrote:
I'm an SPI and I train people at the ropes course I work at. I climbed in one gym and people were taught a way to belay where they never locked off, unless the person fell. This was only rememdied but the "pulley" up top that the rope wrapped around several times creating lots of friction, so much so that I had to feed rope to lower my 200 lb. partner.

Yeah a lot of gyms I've been to use the wrap around the toprope bar. It basically negates the need to actually know how to belay. As long as the climber gets tied in right and someone down there pulls out the slack, any sort of fuckup can ensue and at worst the climber gets "lowered-kinda-fast". It really does probably save the gym managers a lot of grief. The problem is when those people go outside and catch a real fall for the first time, they're not prepared to get yanked off the ground or don't even have a feel for what it's like to actually lock off a belay device. But I guess the heard must be culled at some point. Not everyone survives the learning curve unfortunately.


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By Jason Partin
From San Diego, CA
Nov 18, 2009
In front of Arches, Yosemite Valley, California

Done. Good luck with your project, and please post the results (and your thoughts) as a follow-up on this thread.


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By jaypg
Nov 18, 2009

I miss college.


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By flynn
Nov 18, 2009

Done.

I teach climbing as part of my job description (beats working for a living!:) ). My students' first trip outdoors inevitably produces lots of "eyeballs out on stalks", along with vastly improved skills, both belaying and climbing, even though they're already pretty good.

There's no question in my mind that climbing indoors promotes lackadaisical approaches to safety. People "trained" there don't know what they don't know. With any luck at all, they'll figure out very rapidly that the outdoors is way, way different, and they'll live long enough to reap the benefits (cactus, poison ivy and all).

Long ago, I started cautioning my students after that first outdoor trip that they now knew enough to really hurt themselves. Or, better, to go hire a really good guide and learn much more than I had time or opportunity to teach them.


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By Adam Block
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 18, 2009

You can climb at gyms? Wouldn't that remove everything fun about climbing such as the warm sun on your back and the cool rocks under your fingers. Overhearing the 130 pound kid tell his 250 pound friend "if you fall I'll try and catch you" from the kids that somehow found their way back to where you're climbing and decided they could free solo. Jonesing to climb so bad you swear the clouds hanging over head won't rain on you and finding out just as you starting gearing up you were wrong.


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By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Nov 18, 2009
Bastille Crack Final Pitch

I think I got a 100%


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