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By SaraB
From Denver, CO
Jul 25, 2008
The Newest cover of "top rope weekly"

Anyone have any suggestions on the best way to stay hydrated on all-day ascents that require more water than is feasible to carry (and you won't find more en route). I have tried hydrating intensely the day prior but don't feel it's usually sufficient. Thoughts?

By Kateri Ahrendt
From Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2008
Bart relaxing at Indian Creek.

Hey Sarah, I have the same problem. Normally I drink water like a fish, so alpine days I know will be dehydrating and/or backstraining when hauling multiple liters. I'm curious to see what other people suggest about this. I've bonked on occasion, even with drinking a lot of water. My partners suggested eating more salts prior to and after climbing, and that seems to help (fast food actually tastes good is after a really strenuous day - grease, sugar and salt, yum). While hiking/climbing, as much as I want to guzzle water, I force myself to ration it, otherwise I think it just passes through you quicker.

By Sasha
From Denver, CO
Jul 25, 2008

Take a bigger camelback that holds 2+ liters. You can stuff your food, jacket, headlamp, topo, etc in and that way you have close to a sufficient amount of water.

Or I often try and drink a liter and a half right before starting up the route plus bring the camelback. You'll pee a lot but will be better hydrated.

By Tradster
Jul 25, 2008

Hydrate up prior to your outing with a drink like Gatorade, or some such fluid to load up on electrolytes. Something like Endorox 4 for afterwards will help with muscle recovery and electrolyte replacement. If you just use water, you dilute the body's electrolytes and you will feel the effects late in the day or certainly the next. I've had two friends go to the ER because they loaded up with water and nothing else. Arizona isn't the place to do this. The body goes wacky from such a diluting effect. One way to stay hydrated is to use Platypus type collapsible bladders, that way they just roll or fold up out of the way, but you can hydrate up big time during the approach with no bulky empty water bottles to fight with later on.

By Keith Roussil
From Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2008
Me at the top of Stichter Quits at J-tree

1. Get up early

2. Suffer. It's part of climbing... Er, alpinism at least.

By Lee Smith
Jul 27, 2008
You can love your rope but you can't "LOVE" your rope

SaraB what's up? We really must get out sometime.

Mark Twight has a very good explanation of how to stay hydrated in his book "Extreme Alpinism". He suggests mixing in sport drinks whose glucose comes from glucose polymers (maltodextrins), although these don't taste as good as glucose and sucrose from carbohydrate components. Look for amino acids, potassium and sodium as well in the ingredients. Try to stay away from caffiene.
Consistently drink a little bit all day long as opposed to gulping down a big amount at once.

Or get your partner to carry your water for you.

By SaraB
From Denver, CO
Jul 27, 2008
The Newest cover of "top rope weekly"

Agreed Lee. But, seriously - have you seen Nick and Brendan lately - I'm usually the pack mule. Let's be honest!
Yesterday a big day on a 14er and brought a camel back full of hammer gel heed. Worked pretty well but still needed to drink an entire pitcher (no ice) with dinner. I guess so it goes.
Thanks for all the advice.
What are your thoughts about salt from like pretzels and the like. Does that help replace electrolytes? I'm so confused on the electrolyte gig.

By Marc Horan
From Lafayette, CO
Jul 27, 2008
the end is in sight, just a few more miles of copperheads to go!

SaraB wrote:
I have tried hydrating intensely the day prior but don't feel it's usually sufficient. Thoughts?


I find that over-hydrating the day before has the opposite effect for me. My body thinks that it's going to keep receiving a plethora of water and consistently dumps it out. Therefore, when I get on route and take in less water, my body doesn't know what to do and I become dehydrated more quickly than had I not over-hydrated in the first place.

The only advice that I can think of is if you're climbing in the sun, make sure you're sufficiently covered up. When I climb shirtless, I dehydrate more quickly.

Also, beware that over-hydrating can easily lead to hyponatremia (low blood-salt) that is often worse than dehydration. Make sure you're taking in sodium and electrolytes.

When I get on a long route, I just plan on getting dehydrated while climbing. Then, getting more dehydrated by drinking beer afterwards. I'll rehydrate myself the next day. :)

--Marc

By Rob Kepley
From Westminster,CO
Jul 27, 2008
Spearhead summit

Marc Horan wrote:
When I get on a long route, I just plan on getting dehydrated while climbing. Then, getting more dehydrated by drinking beer afterwards. I'll rehydrate myself the next day. :) --Marc

Well said Marc!

By Kai Larson
From Boulder, Colorado
Jul 29, 2008

Maybe adjust your ideas about how much water it is feasible to carry.

I typically carry 3 liters on an all-day route. It's usually enough.




SaraB wrote:
Anyone have any suggestions on the best way to stay hydrated on all-day ascents that require more water than is feasible to carry (and you won't find more en route). I have tried hydrating intensely the day prior but don't feel it's usually sufficient. Thoughts?

By Clyde
Jul 30, 2008

A lot of myths in this thread. Caffeine will not cause dehydration so don't worry about coffee or tea in the morning. Also over-hydrating will not lead to faster dehydration, it just makes you pee more. Gatorade (and the rest) is really no better than water and food. Endurox R4 is no better whatsoever for muscle recovery than other fluids and foods (even chocolate milk); the 4:1 thing has been debunked.

The best option for preventing dehydration is drinking when you are thirsty. You'll often hear nonsense like "if you wait until your thirsty, it's too late" -- that's based on crap science funded by Gatorade. The 8 eight-ounce glasses of water thing is also a lie. It's best to drink lots of sips throughout the day instead of gulping down a liter but sometimes climbing doesn't allow that. Plain water is just fine as long as you're intaking other fuel sources; fruits count too. Drinking sport drinks while eating sport fuels actually slows absorption and can even temporarily dehydrate you more because the concentrations of carbs, etc. are way too high. Compared to everything else you're carrying, an extra liter or water in a collapsible bottle shouldn't be a deal breaker.

As for hyponatremia, don't worry about it -- just eat real food. Yes, it's a major worry in marathons where endless fluids are available; no sport drinks have enough electrolytes for high sweat rates and few people eat when running. And it's a problem on Grand Canyon hikes in extreme heat where people rely on sport drinks and little else. But a lot of normal foods are high in sodium and eating throughout the day will take care of you. If it's really hot, go heavier on salted nuts, pringles, pretzels, etc. You really don't have to pay the sports marketers for engineered crap. Athletes are among the most gullible consumers out there and will do anything for a supposed edge; good thing placebos work so well ;-)

By Tradster
Jul 30, 2008

Clyde wrote:
A lot of myths in this thread. Caffeine will not cause dehydration so don't worry about coffee or tea in the morning. Also over-hydrating will not lead to faster dehydration, it just makes you pee more. Gatorade (and the rest) is really no better than water and food. Endurox R4 is no better whatsoever for muscle recovery than other fluids and foods (even chocolate milk); the 4:1 thing has been debunked. The best option for preventing dehydration is drinking when you are thirsty. You'll often hear nonsense like "if you wait until your thirsty, it's too late" -- that's based on crap science funded by Gatorade. The 8 eight-ounce glasses of water thing is also a lie. It's best to drink lots of sips throughout the day instead of gulping down a liter but sometimes climbing doesn't allow that. Plain water is just fine as long as you're intaking other fuel sources; fruits count too. Drinking sport drinks while eating sport fuels actually slows absorption and can even temporarily dehydrate you more because the concentrations of carbs, etc. are way too high. Compared to everything else you're carrying, an extra liter or water in a collapsible bottle shouldn't be a deal breaker. As for hyponatremia, don't worry about it -- just eat real food. Yes, it's a major worry in marathons where endless fluids are available; no sport drinks have enough electrolytes for high sweat rates and few people eat when running. And it's a problem on Grand Canyon hikes in extreme heat where people rely on sport drinks and little else. But a lot of normal foods are high in sodium and eating throughout the day will take care of you. If it's really hot, go heavier on salted nuts, pringles, pretzels, etc. You really don't have to pay the sports marketers for engineered crap. Athletes are among the most gullible consumers out there and will do anything for a supposed edge; good thing placebos work so well ;-)


Prove your statements. I've used recovery drinks and they work. I stand by my comments. I agree with lots of sips, and chew gum to keep my mounth moist and avoid cotton mouth, and the resulting guzzling of water.

By Dusty Ross
Jul 30, 2008

If you're alpine climbing, you can carry a single one-liter bottle, a UV pen, and a ziplock bag with some Gatorade powder. There's an endless supply of crystal-clear water in the mountains.

By Tradster
Jul 30, 2008

Dusty Ross wrote:
If you're alpine climbing, you can carry a single one-liter bottle, a UV pen, and a ziplock bag with some Gatorade powder. There's an endless supply of crystal-clear water in the mountains.


That's a very clever and light weight solution, Dusty.

By Tradster
Jul 30, 2008

MoJo Bars are nice and salty, and replenishing salt is important.

By Dusty Ross
Jul 30, 2008

William Dacier wrote:
That's a very clever and light weight solution, Dusty.


I can't take the credit. I used to carry a back-breaking load of 3 liters of water. My climbing partner introduced me to the simplicity of the UV pen.

By Clyde
Jul 30, 2008

Sure they work. But the question is: do they work better than products that cost much less and/or taste much better? The answer to that is a definite NO. Endurox does great marketing but the science they base their claims on was never great and hasn't improved. Look at their research and you'll see there is no evidence that 4:1 is superior to other ratios or that their over-priced product is superior to food.

Want good endurance? Drink some water and eat GORP. Wanna recover fast? Eat a turkey sandwich on whole wheat bread and drink a good microbrew with plenty of hops. Lots of other options without wasting money on marketing.

By Tradster
Jul 30, 2008

Dusty Ross wrote:
I can't take the credit. I used to carry a back-breaking load of 3 liters of water. My climbing partner introduced me to the simplicity of the UV pen.


You are lucky. Nice clear water in AZ is unavailable about 7 months out of the year. I still gotta lug water around here. I envy you.

By Michael McKinnon
Jul 30, 2008
Bunny pancake

Clyde wrote:
A lot of myths in this thread. Caffeine will not cause dehydration so don't worry about coffee or tea in the morning. Also over-hydrating will not lead to faster dehydration, it just makes you pee more. Gatorade (and the rest) is really no better than water and food. Endurox R4 is no better whatsoever for muscle recovery than other fluids and foods (even chocolate milk); the 4:1 thing has been debunked. The best option for preventing dehydration is drinking when you are thirsty. You'll often hear nonsense like "if you wait until your thirsty, it's too late" -- that's based on crap science funded by Gatorade. The 8 eight-ounce glasses of water thing is also a lie. It's best to drink lots of sips throughout the day instead of gulping down a liter but sometimes climbing doesn't allow that. Plain water is just fine as long as you're intaking other fuel sources; fruits count too. Drinking sport drinks while eating sport fuels actually slows absorption and can even temporarily dehydrate you more because the concentrations of carbs, etc. are way too high. Compared to everything else you're carrying, an extra liter or water in a collapsible bottle shouldn't be a deal breaker. As for hyponatremia, don't worry about it -- just eat real food. Yes, it's a major worry in marathons where endless fluids are available; no sport drinks have enough electrolytes for high sweat rates and few people eat when running. And it's a problem on Grand Canyon hikes in extreme heat where people rely on sport drinks and little else. But a lot of normal foods are high in sodium and eating throughout the day will take care of you. If it's really hot, go heavier on salted nuts, pringles, pretzels, etc. You really don't have to pay the sports marketers for engineered crap. Athletes are among the most gullible consumers out there and will do anything for a supposed edge; good thing placebos work so well ;-)


Yeah so the torrents of piss that have to evacuate my body after I drink coffee is in no way dehydrating? I love these comments. Coffee is a diuretic. It makes your body jetisson water. Plus you put milk and sugar in it. Two other things that cause dehydration.

By Clyde
Jul 30, 2008

Michael McKinnon wrote:
Yeah so the torrents of piss that have to evacuate my body after I drink coffee is in no way dehydrating? I love these comments. Coffee is a diuretic. It makes your body jetisson water. Plus you put milk and sugar in it. Two other things that cause dehydration.


Wrong on all counts. For a regular drinker, coffee is no more diuretic than water. Same with milk. And if anything, sucrose would help (ever so slightly).

One of many studies: http://www.jacn.org/cgi/content/full/19/5/591

In plain English: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/04/health/nutrition/04real.ht>>>>>

By Harold Lampasso
From Colorado Springs
Jul 30, 2008

Thirst is not a reliable indicator of hydration, as if you are already thirsty you are dehydrated. You should be drinking even when you are not thirsty

I like cytomax it has helped on some of my biking & runnning when i go for a long time as well as on alpine trips. Plus it has aminos which are supposed to help with recovery as aminos are the building blocks of protein which in turn are supposed to help you recover quicker. I just can't drink water after a period of time. But really you don't need anything like that unless you are going for more than 1 hr of cardio I think (if I remember correctly)

THe military used to believe that you can train the body to go without water, that was later debunked. Depending on activity level i think you can go max 48 hrs without water, but of course performance suffers greatly. I know a super long distance runner who just slams water & gatorade days before he does a race.

in my case i pack less food and more liquids. gels and protein bars. some of which make me thirsty anyway. Aside from carrying a bigger camel back i don't think there is a way around it.

By Tradster
Jul 30, 2008

Living in AZ, if you are already thirsty, you are already dehydrated. Clyde states to eat some food. Well, I mountain bike all summer here in Phoenix, and 100 plus temps are the norm, and I like to bike for anywhere from two to four hours per ride. Food takes too long to replenish the body. It probably takes two to three hours for food to start being broken down in the stomach. A sports drink with electolytes takes much less time to hit the system, and time is very important. The quicker I can recover from strenuous activity, the longer I can ride, climb, or kayak the next day. It really is just that simple.

By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Jul 30, 2008
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth. <br /><br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve. <br /><br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger.<br />

I'm a big fan o the Gatorade. For a bunch of dummies from Gainesville, they sure did come up with something beneficial.

The advice I got was if you did load up on it and your body didn't need it, you can create nausea -- which is why we're seeing the lighter Gatorade-type bevies; likewise, if you only drink water and your body needs the other items, then you can be in trouble just the same.

It's an equilibrium you're trying to maintain while being physically active.

By Clyde
Jul 30, 2008

Harold Lampasso wrote:
Thirst is not a reliable indicator of hydration, as if you are already thirsty you are dehydrated. You should be drinking even when you are not thirsty I like cytomax it has helped on some of my biking & runnning when i go for a long time


Old myths die hard. No matter how many times it's repeated, this is still false.
http://www.sportsscientists.com/2007/10/fluid-intake-dehydra>>>>>

William Dacier wrote:
Living in AZ, if you are already thirsty, you are already dehydrated. Clyde states to eat some food. Well, I mountain bike all summer here in Phoenix, and 100 plus temps are the norm, and I like to bike for anywhere from two to four hours per ride. Food takes too long to replenish the body. It probably takes two to three hours for food to start being broken down in the stomach. A sports drink with electolytes takes much less time to hit the system, and time is very important. The quicker I can recover from strenuous activity, the longer I can ride, climb, or kayak the next day. It really is just that simple.


You are confusing fluid and energy requirements here. Water and simple carbs are moved into and absorbed in the small intestine quickly, no matter the source. The speed of absorption is dependent upon many factors including concentrations but it's all fairly fast. The difference between absorption of plain water and sport drink is actually pretty minimal, despite the advertising -- the salt in Gatorade is mostly for taste believe it or not. There is a real slowdown of gastric emptying however if you consume sport drink along with an energy gel or a sport bar and that strong a dose of carbs (more than 8%) can actually draw water from the body temporarily to help dilute. So water and some food really can be just as good as the fancy packaged stuff. The latter mostly offers convenience and placebo power.

Getting the energy from complex carbs, fats, and proteins is much slower. But that has little to do with hydration.

By Michael McKinnon
Jul 30, 2008
Bunny pancake

Clyde wrote:
Wrong on all counts. For a regular drinker, coffee is no more diuretic than water. Same with milk. And if anything, sucrose would help (ever so slightly). One of many studies: http://www.jacn.org/cgi/content/full/19/5/591 In plain English: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/04/health/nutrition/04real.ht>>>>>




Show me all the studies you want. I know when I drink coffee I am thirsty as shit and I piss like a race horse.

How about this: Let's climb together. You drink coffee all day and I will drink water. Let's see who lasts longer.

By Marc Horan
From Lafayette, CO
Jul 30, 2008
the end is in sight, just a few more miles of copperheads to go!

Clyde wrote:
A lot of myths in this thread.


Alright, Waterboy. Thanks for enlightening us; we love the condescending attitude that goes with it too.

--Marc


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