Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Great exotic destinations over Xmas?

  [ Forums > General Climbing ]
View Latest Posts in this Forum     Page 1 of 2.  1  2  Next>

 
By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Nov 7, 2006
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

I have some time off over Xmas and from Dec20-28th would be interestedd in doing something warm and sunny- and possibly adventurous, If I find a compatible partner.

I have considered "the ususal" destinations:
El Portrero Chico, Mx (never been)
Raylee/Tonsai, Thailand (been for a week before)
K.L., Malaysia (around Batu caves, been several times)
Etc...
Been strongly thinking about going to do Waking Dream on Tioman (E Malaysia coast, a big-wall on a tropical island) YOu can google this.
Considered going to do Mt Kinabalu in Sabah (Malaysian Borneo)

Anyway, I am looking for ideas and a experienced, safe, mellow partner who has a travel budget too (time and money). Not surprisingly, most of my pals have family interests over Xmas, but I chose that card for newyears this year.

Please contact me by Email, or post ideas!


FLAG
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Jackson Hole, WY
Nov 7, 2006
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Australia? Not very adventurous, but....

Arapiles is amazing. As a trad climber, you won't be disappointed. It might very well be one of the best trad crags in the world. 2000 routes within 10 minutes of the car, from one pitch to five pitches. And old-school trad... bring hexes, RPs, and your own keyhole bolt hangers.

It can be hot that time of year though.

Outside of my original home "crag" of JTree, this is hands down my favorite climbing area.


FLAG
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Nov 7, 2006
A shady character lurking by Jonny's guidebooks. <br /><br />Taken 11/22/09

Wow, sounds exciting!
Hope you find a compatible travel/climbing partner.

Anyone have any favorite easy-moderate trad areas in, or near Mendoza, Argentina?

Possibly going there soon. : )

G


FLAG
By Jim Matt
From Indianapolis, IN
Nov 8, 2006
Jim at the Boneyard TRing a route

Tony, Thailand is supposed to be great (although you said that you've been there). My friend went there last year (November) and raved about how great it was to be in the sun and climb in warm (tropical) weather. If I didn't blow all of my vacation earlier this year, I would have been very interested in an adventure of that magnitude around X-mas... Have you considered anything in South Africa?

Gigette, I don't know personally of any rock climbs near Mendoza, but I found a little information here:

http://www.andes.org.uk/rock-climbing-information/argentina->>>>>

The Arenales valley supposedly has a ton of climbs. Sounds like a cool trip! Two of my friends are headed down to Patagonia, mainly for trekking, around the 12th of December. It sounds like you (your ankle) are feeling better, too. :)


FLAG
By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2006
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Andy Laakmann wrote:
Australia? Not very adventurous, but.... Arapiles is amazing. As a trad climber, you won't be disappointed. It might very well be one of the best trad crags in the world. 2000 routes within 10 minutes of the car, from one pitch to five pitches. And old-school trad... bring hexes, RPs, and your own keyhole bolt hangers. It can be hot that time of year though.


I've done some climbing around the sidney crags, and also in the blue mountains. I thought at that time that it was warm but not unreasonable. The climbing there was nothing special though...

But last night I was wondering to myself about the Gramps and Arapiles. Which are better/more accessable/have somewhere good to stay?

Thailand- all sport, nice, but not so adventurous... not much new for me to see there.

And does anyone here have good beta on S. African or Moroccan climbing?


FLAG
By Jim Amidon
Nov 8, 2006
What ??

Tonsai Bay Thailand, absolute paridise. Long haul to get there, but guarantee you will not want to leave, 500 or so sport routes, most right from the beach. Super cheap you can leave with the clotes on your back, 12 quickdraws and a rope. All the rest you can buy there for uber cheap. Oh and the amount of Swedish blonds is astounding......
All topless.......

J~


FLAG
By Jim Amidon
Nov 8, 2006
What ??

SA is nice but for going that far, head to Thailand.........Arapalies, and the Gramps, have alots of flies.....and not so many swedish blondes


FLAG
By Ryan Huetter
From Toyota Tacoma
Nov 8, 2006
From Mountain Magazine (Bruce Carson's first clean ascent of Sentinal Rock's West Face)

For some adventurous climbing inspiration, read Sam Lightner Jr.'s "All Elevations Unknown". It definitely isn't Tonsai Beach cragging!! Maybe Batu Lawi can see a second ascent...


FLAG
By Healyje
Nov 8, 2006
girl40

Tony Bubb wrote:
I've done some climbing around the sidney crags, and also in the blue mountains. ... The climbing there was nothing special though...


Hard to imagine anyone making such a statement about the Blue Mountains!!! As far as I'm concerned it's the best climbing area I've ever been to bar none. You could be absolutely Ericksonian and never get back on an FA you've fallen on and still be doing FA's for a 100 lifetimes. I'd skip the Thailand, Gramps, and Arapiles and head straight for the Blues every time myself...


FLAG
By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Nov 8, 2006
North Shore Minnesota

If I were you I would go ice climbing in Canada. There's nothing more exotic than Canmore, eh?


FLAG
By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2006
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Healyje wrote:
Hard to imagine anyone making such a statement about the Blue Mountains!!! As far as I'm concerned it's the best climbing area I've ever been to bar none. You could be absolutely Ericksonian and never get back on an FA you've fallen on and still be doing FA's for a 100 lifetimes. I'd skip the Thailand, Gramps, and Arapiles and head straight for the Blues every time myself...

Healy- Since you liked the Blue Mts so well, I'm surprised you haven't relocated to the area around the RRG, KY. The Corbin formation (sandstone) there is very substantially similar to that of the Blue Mts. Maybe I was not impressed with it so much because it was so similar to my origional climbing 'home.'


FLAG
By Jeff Barnow
From Boulder Co
Nov 8, 2006
What goes up must come down

Gigette Miller wrote:
Anyone have any favorite easy-moderate trad areas in, or near Mendoza, Argentina? G

I lived in Southern Chile for a year. Made it to Mendoza one time. It was beautiful, the food was amazing and super cheap and the people were great. I didn't get a chance to do any climbing in that area but the Andes around there are spectacular and I am sure have plenty to offer. If you're really looking for adventure go to Punta Arenas and head to Torres del Paine. Well worth the extra money whether you are climbing, fishing, trekking, or just hanging out. I got a ticket from Santiago CL (a few hours in car from Mendoza) to Punta Arenas for $300 round trip. I think the travel distance is like 1400 miles so it's a pretty good bang for your buck. This area was much more impressive than Mendoza although the food and wine wasn't.

Have fun what ever you end up doing.


FLAG
By John J. Glime
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 8, 2006
...

G,
I have spent a lot of time in Mendoza. It is a wonderful place for wine and beautiful women (just saying...) the mosquitos can be a pest in the upcoming months. But I agree, if you are looking for rockclimbing, head farther south. There are rock climbs on the approach to Aconcagua, and you can ice climb once you get to the normal routes basecamp, but I don't know of any good trad. climbing around Mendoza. Some decent rivers... head south, or go into Chile (which you should do anyway... go to Vina del Mar, suck lemon lulus and eat seafood empanadas (the best I have ever had.)

Tony, I haven't climbed there, but Brazil is wonderful for many reasons :)


FLAG
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Jackson Hole, WY
Nov 8, 2006
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Arapiles is way more accessible than the Grampians. The Grampians has great climbing, but the areas are somewhat spread out and require, gasp, some hiking. The Grampians are only an hour from Arapiles, so you can hit both. Arapiles is pretty much park and crag. The Grampians will be considerably cooler than Arapiles though.

Arapiles really is remarkable. From it distance it looks like a pile of choss, but the place is truly magical. A lifetime of adventure to be had within its orange walls. So many wonderful trad routes it made our heads spin. It was, without a doubt, the best climbing trip I've been on.

These photos will get your psyched...
http://www.chockstone.org/Gallery/ArapilesPics.htm


FLAG
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Denver, CO
Nov 9, 2006
Andrew Gram

South Africa is a killer trip, though not that adventurous. If you want to up the adventure value though, head to Namibia to the Spitzkpof. Long routes on granite in the boonies.

Table Mountain in Cape Town is one of the finest climbing areas i've ever been to - like the Gunks, but much bigger and with a sea view. The big domes in the Drakensburg mountains look like bigger version of the domes in the South Platte. Note that those two places are nowhere near each other - you would want to fly from Cape Town to Johannesburg to get the Drakensburgs.

I can't imagine trying to fly to Indonesia, do a remote wall, and fly home in 8 days. That seems really ambitious.


FLAG
By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2006
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

OK, so now one thing that has come up is Morocco. Anyone here ever been for climbing or otherwise?


FLAG
By John J. Glime
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 9, 2006
...

Tony,
I have spent a small amount of time there, I enjoyed it. Such a short boat ride from Europe, but a completely different culture.

I believe Paul Ross (on this site) spent some time climbing there sometime this past year, you should try emailing him for beta and thoughts.

But that reminds me! I have heard from friends that there is wonderful desert climbing in Jordan, around Petra...


FLAG
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Denver, CO
Nov 10, 2006
Andrew Gram

Paul has sent me a bunch of his photos from his new routes in Morocco. Beautiful long routes on quartzite, no bolts, decent gear, and more new routes than you could ever do. Amazing how much he gets around.


FLAG
By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 10, 2006
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

What about Spain?

Costa Blanca, El Chorro, Mallorca?

Might be reasonable over x-mas.

Anyone done any of these areas? Accomadation recommendations?

I'd be curious about a few days on Mallorca in conjunction with a trip to the Costa Blanca area. I hear tell there's fun canyoneering there as well as fun sports climbing.

I note Rockfax will have a new guide ready right around x-mas.

Malaysia looks pretty neat. Saw an anyplace wild show on PBS on it in the last night or two. Tons of limestone. Also, that real tall peak (granite?) looks outstanding. Kinabalu. That looks pretty darn cool. Looks to be some longer techy routes too.

How much time you got??


FLAG
By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2006
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Brian in SLC wrote:
What about Spain? Costa Blanca, El Chorro, Mallorca? Might be reasonable over x-mas. Anyone done any of these areas? Accomadation recommendations? I'd be curious about a few days on Mallorca in conjunction with a trip to the Costa Blanca area. I hear tell there's fun canyoneering there as well as fun sports climbing. I note Rockfax will have a new guide ready right around x-mas. Malaysia looks pretty neat. Saw an anyplace wild show on PBS on it in the last night or two. Tons of limestone. Also, that real tall peak (granite?) looks outstanding. Kinabalu. That looks pretty darn cool. Looks to be some longer techy routes too. How much time you got??


I could do spain, yes, if something more exotic was not forthcoming as an option. I am more of a tradie than a sportie though.
Yes, Malaysia is pretty neat. I'll scan in my slides and post them on my profile one of these days. The limestone is pretty good and is mostly on the coast and around K.L. The granite peak is Kinabalu, but inderstand that is in Sabah (Malaysian Borneo) and is not near K.L. Although Asia Air runs flights out of Johor Bahru and K.L. to Kota Kinabalu for below 100MR (~$25). I have not been to K.K. but I have taken some flights ove to Sarawak and been around Miri and Kuching, as well as between the two. It's pretty easy to do. The real issue for adventure climbing on Kinabalu is that it is in a national park and is permit based. Since you'd have to get a non-standard permit to go on vertical rock- it would be a red-tape exerience, if I understand correctly.

I have ~8-10 days off, so I'd rather go to one or another place and not both.

I might have a Morocco partner lined up. Someone I know already- will know by Monday my situation.


FLAG
By Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Nov 12, 2006

This thread really ought to be kept going. It could morph into some kinda TripAdvisor kind of thing for climbers. Roadtrip destinations are one thing, but hearing beta on places like South Africa and Thailand from real people is fascinating to me.


FLAG
By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 13, 2006
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Mike Lane wrote:
This thread really ought to be kept going. It could morph into some kinda TripAdvisor kind of thing for climbers. Roadtrip destinations are one thing, but hearing beta on places like South Africa and Thailand from real people is fascinating to me.


I'll toss out Kalymnos in Greece and Arco in Italy as possible winter rock destinations...(both could be nippy in the shade).

I hear Kalymnos has an airport now, but, not sure the service outside the main tourism season (summer). Arco is pretty easy to drive to from north or south on the autostrasse (Austria/Munich or Milan). Both have gobs of climbing, but, Kalymnos would be primarily sport, while Arco has both sport and trad.


FLAG
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Nov 13, 2006
A shady character lurking by Jonny's guidebooks. <br /><br />Taken 11/22/09

Thanks, Jeff Barnow, and John J. Glime for the great info. re; Mendoza, Argentina, and surrounding area. The trip is materializing for early January. : )


FLAG
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Denver, CO
Nov 14, 2006
Andrew Gram

You could very easily not leave Mendoza in early January and have a great trip. Oh lordie, the wine is good.

If you are down there anyway, see if you can get a cheap trip to Easter Island. I did that when I got sick on Aconcagua, and I had a much more memorable time on Rapa Nui than I did on Aconcagua. If you go out there, check out the Mahina Taka Taka for a place to stay - Mama Lucia is one of the nicest women on the planet, and you'll feel like family in a hurry. It's good to speak a bit of Spanish there if at all possible - though Rapa Nui is better and not that hard to learn.

iorana - hello, good bye, welcome
maururu - thank you
kai riva riva - good food


FLAG
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Nov 15, 2006
A shady character lurking by Jonny's guidebooks. <br /><br />Taken 11/22/09

Thanks for the great info., Andrew! We are going there for a wedding, but plan to squeeze in some adventure too. I'm recovering from an ankle injury, so any heavy duty trekking or climbing with long approaches is out, on this trip.

G


FLAG
By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2006
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

I'd like to take a moment to thank each of you for the responses and beta. Hopefully someday I'll get a better chance to use it all. Presently, I am informed that I will be heading to S.E. Asia on business for December anyway, with exact dates uncertain, so planning an adventure trip and lining up a partner will be difficult.
Looks like it will be some pan-pacific climbing for me, but probably more like Thailand or Malaysia again!


FLAG

  [ Forums > General Climbing ]
Page 1 of 2.  1  2  Next>