started looking at the hubbel guide for this route and was interested to know if the bolts have been updated? I saw on that Kevin Stricker had made mention of changing out some old 1/4" er's I believe. and I noticed that in the gear description it says big camalot. does anyone no sizing? 5 big or 6 camalot big?

That description was written when a #4 Camalot was the biggest. You need a pretty fat and heavy rack for the gear pitch, then nothing but draws and a couple small tcus. The beta to get is to find out of you can rap the route these days, then leave most of your rack at the top of the gear pitch.

thanks Jed. the fat and heavy part is no problem. I have multiples in all the bd sizes and supplemented with wild country. and my climbing partner loves off width(but I haven't figured why I get all the off width pitches when we climb).

I'm not too sure that you would want to rap the route unless a storm came in. You can get off the back side in one rap with two ropes. If you drive in on the Metberry Gulch road you can be back at your truck in 15 minutes after the rappel.

When I say fat and heavy, I don't mean OW, just that most leaders will want 2 each from tcus up to #3 and 1 #4, as I recall, which is a lot of weight to carry later on 5.11 slab. My recollection is from over a decade ago, though. I think it just goes to a fist crack + maybe 1-2 wide maneuvers at the top. I think you'll see what's going on from the base. The raps down the back are indeed easy, but the descent from there is a huge pain in the ass if you are going back down to the river. I've been up there 3x and would definitely be looking at rapping if I went again.

if say you were going to rap could you get away with one 70m or bring a 60m and a tag line?

You don't need a fat OW rack to climb pitch 4. The biggest thing you need is an old style 4 friend, although, a 4 camalot might be usefull. For the most part, the pitch is a fairly moderate chimney grovel (bring kneepads) where you can get good pro in the back of the chimney. The crux is near the top, where the crack pinches down to a rattlely wide fist/forearm crack and bulges outward (see the B&W photo of this pitch - that's the crux). This section was never a problem for Peter W., given that he has forearms like Popeye, but I always found it usefull to tape my shirt sleves to my wrists to keep from getting shredded on this section. I would not carry more than one of each camalot from a 1 through a 4, and perhaps a few hexes. Don't forget the wired stoppers and some brass nuts,which can be used elsewhere on the climb, and some slings for rope-drag if you lace up the back of the chimney.

God damm it Pete get off the internet!

If you take Metberry Gulch to the saddle, don't go down the north side of the rock. Instead walk down the road to the river then back (edit: downstream..Thanks Christopher) to the rock. This way it is an easy 30 minute walk vs torturous bushwacking down the north side of the rock.

Don't go upstream or you will never find it. Kevin, I'm sure you meant to say downstream.

does anyone know what the pitch lengths are???

Old school pitch lengths.

thanks Allen. the plan shall be a 60 meter and tag line(if shit goes sideways, like weather).

A good idea to bring two strings. The crack is a monster on the hands. Tape!
It's one of the best routes in the state. Have fun

Kev, I think we should bring the 46 meter rope...no sense in bringing extra weight....

I've been looking at this route for a while and knock on wood the weather holds for this weekend. definitely won't forget the tape.

you mean the rope that you keep soaking in gasoline and towing vehicles with??? sounds like a great idea if you are from jersey. by the way I'm into training weight. DEEEEEP!

go to bed...so i don't have to listen to you bitching sat. morning that you are tired and haven't been getting enough sleep....

Dandy must be in bed and you are surfing porn and what not. I got the bees on the track!!!