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Area with the most routes in the USA

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By Caroline George
Oct 28, 2009

I am writing an article right now and was wondering how Red Rocks places in the "area with the most routes in the USA"ranking. Thanks for any help with this. C


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By Brad Brandewie
Oct 28, 2009
On the way to the top of Owen's first peak.<br /><br />(Engineer Mountain near Durango)

What do you mean by Area?


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By Bryan Gohn
From Irvine, CA
Oct 28, 2009
Red Rock under winter's white.

Do you mean most established routes, or most potential for routes? To give a bit of perspective, this site lists:
978 routes in Mt Lemmon, AZ
1044 routes in Red Rock, NV
1080 routes in Moab, UT
1255 routes in Boulder Canyon, CO (with 3208 routes in the greater Boulder area)
3244 routes in Joshua Tree, CA


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By Pat C
From Honolulu,HI... was in Indio
Oct 28, 2009
me

Do you mean most vertical milage? cause if you count Joshua Tree... Which I think has more individual routes than almost anywhere, it may actually be lacking in vertical elevation compared to somewhere like yosemite.


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By Tom R
From Denver, CO
Oct 28, 2009
self portrait

If you mean potential routes, Ten Sleep is by far on top. If you mean established routes, Jtree.
It also depends on how you define area.


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By Caroline George
Oct 29, 2009

Thanks for the help. So, by area I mean places like Red Rocks, Yosemite, JTree, Boulder Canyon, Indian Creek, Zion, etc.

I am talking about established routes. I'd like to know both the area with the most pitches and the most established routes.

Thanks so much!


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Oct 29, 2009
3rd bolt

Getting the pitch count will be tough. I wouldn't use the numbers in the database if you want it to be accurate. But you said you were writing an article, so based on current journalistic standards it probably doesn't need to be accurate :)

Anyway (one of the most annoying words in the English language according to a recent article I read) I would start by figuring out the route & pitch count for Red Rocks. I recommend you email Jerry Handren. He recently authored the most authoritative guide to Red Rocks. His contact info is here:

http://www.redrocksguidebook.com/contact-us.html

Once you have that, post it here and the peanut gallery can chime in with areas that have more or less routes.


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Oct 29, 2009
3rd bolt

FYI, my Swain Red Rocks guidebook, copyright 2000, says "...even with 1,100 routes this book is by no means comprehensive."


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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 29, 2009
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

For volume of rock and pitch density, hard to beat Seneca in WV.

For sheer numbers in one area, J Tree [8000+?]. Your not a local until, what, 1000 routes?

-Brian in SLC


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By John Wilder
Oct 29, 2009

i always believed that Jtree had more established routes than any other climbing area. The last number i heard was 6,000.

In terms of established routes- my guess is that Red Rock is probably in the top 10, possibly in the top 5.

In terms of potential routes, it's definitely in the top 5- as, by my estimate, we've only discovered about 40% (at the most) of the climbable rock in the park. Most of the long stuff has been done, but there is miles of rock out there...

Jerry would be a good person to contact- he worked on that book for nearly a decade, so he'll likely have a good idea of the number. Add at least a hundred to the number he gives you, though- there's been an explosion in new routes since his book has come out.


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By Bad Sock Puppet
From With the climbing Gods
Oct 29, 2009
Bad Sock Puppet

I want to say that RRG has nearly 4,000?


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By arm-jammer
Oct 29, 2009

dont forget about the New River Gorge in WV, loads of routes, definatly over 1,000....


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Oct 29, 2009
3rd bolt

The route database at RedRiverClimbing.com lists 1933 routes for the RRG.


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By Sasha
From Denver, CO
Oct 29, 2009

I heard the new Wolverine guide to the New River Gorge is going to have over 2400 routes.


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By Coeus
Oct 29, 2009
I am a neandertal.

Brian in SLC wrote:
For volume of rock and pitch density, hard to beat Seneca in WV.

Dude, seneca's guidebook is like a pamphlet compared to some of these other areas...btw volume of rock? did you use Archimedes' trick of water displacement to find the volume?


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By Bryan Gohn
From Irvine, CA
Oct 29, 2009
Red Rock under winter's white.

Coeus wrote:
Dude, seneca's guidebook is like a pamphlet compared to some of these other areas...btw volume of rock? did you use Archimedes' trick of water displacement to find the volume?

I think for volume of exposed, climbable rock, it'd have to be the Sierras. Just one tiny corner of it, like Yosemite National Park, probably has more rock than all but a few states. I don't know if it'd qualify as an "area" since the range is a couple hundred miles long, but I'm sure if it was as extensively developed as a place like Tahquitz, the number of routes would probably be in the millions.


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By Pat C
From Honolulu,HI... was in Indio
Oct 29, 2009
me

I wouldn't say that Tahquitz is extensively developed. I mean, lilly rock and suicide rock yes, but have you seen all that rock around that area? I haven't heard anything about development on those pieces of rock. Of course they're nothing compared to lilly and suicide, but I'll bet there are a few gems out there.


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By Greg Barnes
Oct 29, 2009
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Needle. Photo by Josh Janes.

My guess: Red Rocks wouldn't quite make the top 5 in number of routes, but would make the top 3 in number of pitches.

It's strongly dependent on how you define an "area." For instance, if you define Bishop Area as an "area" as opposed to just Owens River Gorge, it might be a contender for the top 5 in number of routes - but if you break it down, then no.

If you define Yosemite as Yosemite National Park, including Tuolumne Meadows and all the High Sierra routes that are within the boundaries of the Park, then it's a very different picture than if you define it as Yosemite Valley. If you define Yosemite as everything in the Park, it will beat Joshua Tree on number of pitches even with 8000 "routes" in Joshua Tree (many of which are barely routes).


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By arm-jammer
Oct 29, 2009

Sasha wrote:
I heard the new Wolverine guide to the New River Gorge is going to have over 2400 routes.

your correct it does have over 1,000 routes, there are actually books the size of the Eric Horst guide to Va, WV, and MD just on one of the areas of the New like Bubba City, its incredible, and i love climbing there as much as i can make the drive, its definatly an east coast mecca for sport and trad, though for multi pitch i do love making the hour drive over to seneca from where i live at. theres countless possibilities and tons of old school rated trad lines with hella bomber anchors for rappel...good stuff for sure.


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By slim
Oct 30, 2009

if you include the lost creek wilderness and the rampart range into the south platte, it is probably pretty high up there. in terms of POTENTIAL routes, it is definitely way up at the top. many lifetimes of rock in this sprawling area.


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By slim
Oct 30, 2009

also, if you count 20' high grid-bolted road cuts, boulder canyon is gunning for the top. for sure.


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By Punter Brewster
Oct 31, 2009
High Steppin' into the crux of Exoduster.

As for 'cragging' destinations, I would imagine it's a tight race between jtree and rrg.


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