Looking for some history here on two topics. What was the first 5.13 crack climb in US? What was the first 5.13 face climb in US? Date specific.

I could be wrong but The Phoenix, by Ray Jardine 77/78. for crack climb.

Phoenix is the consensus first 5.13 in the US. However, didn't both Equinox in Jtree and Supercrack in the Gunks get that rating earlier, but were both downgraded?

I have no idea what the first 5.13 face climb was, or what the first 5.13 rapbolted line was.

Yes, Pheonix, or Sphnix Crack, or Grande Illusion?

I think that the 1st rap-bolted 5.13 is a whole different question. But a good one too know.

I think Grand Illusion was the first 5.13 established, though the Phoenix was right about the same time.

Pete Cleveland put up Phlogistan 5.13a/b at Devils Lake back in '77

Sphinx was reported as April '81
Grand Illusion as '79

(From Climb!, Achey, Chelton, & Godfrey) I love that book, btw

Supercrack at the Gunks 1974, first climb rated 5.13 in the US, now rated 12c.

Wait till Mono checks in, he has a good write up under Grand Illusion. This subject is complex because hanging and toproping are involved.
I didn't get involved with climbing until the mid-80's myself, so all I remember is reading that Yaniro was credited with it. I look forward to hearing all the elders pitch in on this.

From my limited knowledge my vote for earliest sport climb would be something like Darkness at Noon @ Smith Rocks(early 80's). Though I'm not sure that it was even rap bolted.

I was kinda leaning towards Grande Illusion for crack climbing, although I'm not completely sure. Phlogistan was a top-rope rated initially as 5.12+; I know Alan Watts of Smith Rocks was putting in some hard sport routes but had not rated anything 5.13 until later mid 1980s? I know Rainbow Wall was Eldorado Canyon's 1st 5.13, May, 1984. This was the free version of the old aid route, not rap bolted, and, or top-roped. What came next or before that?

Here are my comments from Grand Illusion

Iīm in Spain so thatīs all you get for now!

As far as TRing goes, IMO its certainly no more valid than bouldering, so if we want to count TRs, we should count boulder problems as well, in which case surely John Gill would be first.

Timely topic for me as I have been wondering the time line for 5.13 east of the Mississippi. I knew of the Devils Lake routes, but we have a route at Jackson Falls established in 1990 "East of East St. Louis" 5.13b, also "Emperor of the North" 5.13a same year.