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2010 Climbing Goals...But Not a Tick List. For example...
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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Dec 30, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wall.
This year I will:

  • teach my 13-yr old son to lead
  • climb with my adult daughter at least 4 times.
  • refine my regular fitness workouts to maximize climbing benefit
  • work hard on better flexibility, particularly stemming splits
  • average one session a week at the climbing gym--this winter anyway.
  • get out on cold partnerless mornings to aid solo and improve my placement speed and efficiency.
  • add a lot of offset nuts and cams to my rack
  • add areas beyond Eldo, Bocan, and Golden to my fun. Specifically, I'll climb at least 3 times each in the Splatte, Lumpy, Vedauvoo, RMNP, twice in Moab, and once at Devils Tower.
  • solo something reasonably requiring a bivouac.
  • spend less time on MP.

Without objection I reserve the right to revise, extend, and edit the record!

FLAG
By Rich Farnham
Dec 30, 2009
I like this approach. Here's mine:

  • incorporate some form of injury prevention workout into my climbing schedule.
  • do more cardio than just hauling too much gear to the crag
  • continue to improve my offwidth skills (metric: lead at least 1 5.10 OW at Vedauwoo--Mainstreet, Left Torpedo Tube; or something similar at the Creek--Big Guy, etc.)
  • lead Country Club as one pitch without falling off in the last 10 feet (again).
  • climb the Diamond via a route on the Lower East Face rather than approaching via the N Chimney or Chasm View
  • lead the Vertigo roof pitch without falling
  • do another desert tower (Vision Quest, Lightning Bolt Cracks, Fine Jade, or Jah Man are all high on the list)

That's probably enough for now. My tick lists are huge, but I don't really care which go down this year vs. next other than what I've listed above.

(Edit to add one more: get my portaledge back from Shawn, maybe after he solos that route that requires the bivouac)

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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Dec 30, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wall.
Rich Farnham wrote:
(Edit to add one more: get my portaledge back from Shawn, maybe after he solos that route that requires the bivouac)

Ouch. :) I actually bought a ledge. They're propped up next to each other in the corner of my office. I just need to figure out when we can cross paths for the hand off...

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By Tom Hanson
Dec 30, 2009
Climber Drawing
As an over the hill has been, with my hardest climbs behind me, I am lowering my standards and to get the most enjoyment out of climbing, I am setting the following 2010 goals related to climbing:

1. Using highly focused visualization techniques, I plan on accelerating the transition from 5.12 to 5.11
2. Train a posse of young ropeguns to take the sharp end so that I can avoid having to lead anything.
3. Resistance training is a proven method of increasing strength. In 2010 I plan to increase my consumption of bourbon, pizza and ice cream, so I can benefit from climbing with the added weight.
4. Long approaches make your legs bigger and arms smaller, a detriment to climbing. Iíll avoid any crag that requires walking any distance from the car.
5. Everyone knows that it takes us older folks longer to recover from overuse injuries and minor tweaks. I will learn to discipline myself with extended rest periods of up to several weeks between climbs.
6. I will maintain my boycott of rock gyms. Any added training can only increase my chances of injury.
7. Iíll take advantage of my long neglected medical HMO and find a prescription friendly doctor who can provide me with an unending supply of painkillers, anti-anxiety and anti-inflammatory meds and mood stabilizers.
8. First ascents can be awkward, since you have to figure out every move. To protect my delicate ego, I will only do climbs that I have wired when I am in front of other people.
9. Iíll go to Walgreens and purchase bandages, knee and elbow braces that Iíll wear to the crags. There is nothing like the appearance of an injury as an excuse for poor performance.
10. Climb less and spew more.

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By Buff Johnson
Dec 30, 2009
smiley face
This year, I will get that deer in Ouray


-- I'm off like a prom dress suck'as!

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By Rich Farnham
Dec 30, 2009
Shawn Mitchell wrote:
Ouch. :) I actually bought a ledge. They're propped up next to each other in the corner of my office. I just need to figure out when we can cross paths for the hand off...


I'm not worried about it, just couldn't pass up the opportunity to give you a hard time. I'm on Christmas break, so I'm flexible if you wanted to try to meet up. Or if this is a busy time of year for you with all those kids running around, we can put it off for a while.

Since the sun doesn't seem to be coming out this winter, maybe we should plan to go climb at one of the gyms some time soon. I don't have any memberships, so I'm game for any of them.

-Rich

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 30, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord
Shawn Mitchell wrote:
* climb with my adult daughter at least 4 times.

can i too?


Shawn Mitchell wrote:
* spend less time on MP.

SAY IT AINT SO!!!!


EDIT: other than that, i have about 35 draws hanging in the canyon i need to get down...

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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Dec 30, 2009
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.
This year I will (try to):
- Return to climbing without whining about injuries which should not be effecting me anymore.
- Loose the Weight (14 lbs) I put on last year while inactive (7lbs down, 7 to go since 12/18/09) Get back down to college size, in effect.
- Visit one more Colorado destination I've not been to and climbed before (IE Devil's Head or Penetente or something)
- Visit one more Rocky's Regional destination I've not been to or climbed before (IE Tensleep or Little Cottonwood)
- Visit one more National destination I've not been to or climbed before, or not seen in a long time (IE: California Needles, Sierras, or possibly revisit Red River Gorge after 15 years away.)
Visit one more International destination I've not climbed at before (??? Araps, Gramps, S Africa, Morocco, Jordan, etc)
My stretch goal, I suppose is to revcover to being able to do alpine routes and maybe ski or board again by fall/winter 2010.

Be thankful for what I've got both here and away in 2009, all things considered...
Despite some injuries, I made it to Chaing Mai, Taiwan, Yosemite, Indian Creek, El Potrero, and a few more.

FLAG
 
By Tristan Higbee
From Cambodia
Dec 30, 2009
Me on a mixed route Crisco and I did in Rock Canyon.
  • Do a real wall that requires a bivy. El Cap is in my sights.
  • Visit climbing areas I've never been: St. George, Red Rocks, somewhere in Wyoming (Winds?), Tetons
  • Climb some more mountains. I'd like to do a (few?) Colorado fourteener(s), do Rainier again, and another Cascade volcano (Shasta? Hood?)
  • Actually try working routes and having projects.
  • Reach 50 towers climbed (currently at 26 or 27)

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By tenesmus
Dec 30, 2009
Seriously Tristan. You've never been to St George? You'd love it down there. There is even more limestone than Rock Canyon. Miles of it.

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By Tristan Higbee
From Cambodia
Dec 31, 2009
Me on a mixed route Crisco and I did in Rock Canyon.
Yeah yeah yeah. But it's hard for me to justify choosing St. George over Moab, you know? (Ok, I have done Zion, but that's different...). Limestone is great, but I climb on it all the time! Sandstone is much more of a rare treat. But yeah, I don't really have any good reason for not having climbed in St. George yet. It's on the list...

Another goal: Get faster at aid climbing...

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By koreo
From Denver, CO
Dec 31, 2009
sloping <br />
Nice topic.
Here goes.
  • Be able to climb an outdoor 5.12 or better
  • Humiliate myself on Trice
  • Be able to compete at the Open skill level at the Teva Mountain games
  • Get a 70 meter rope (not a goal, but it is climbing related)
  • Not give myself a serious injury
  • Climb on other crags in Colorado that aren't located in around Boulder or CCC
  • Climb in other regions of the country, like the East Coast, and RRG
  • Not blow threw too many pairs of climbing shoes (I know, not much I can do anything about that)
  • Goals 3,8,9 on Mr. Tom Hanson's list, cuz they'd either be fun or funny.

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By Calirado
Dec 31, 2009
In 2010 I hope to lead an R climb close to whatever my limit is at the time, and, if there's a good piece over a clean fall, GO FOR IT! with minimal delay and whimpering.

I hope to stumble onto nude sunbathers or a couple en flagrante delictu. In 20+ years it's never happened.

I want to drive a pin--not on a real route--but close enough to trad climbing that the singing railroad spike draws confused and dirty looks.

I want to think of and deliver a withering comeback next time a teen or 20 something at the gym instructs me to tie a "safety finish" on the tail of my figure 8 knot. Any suggestions?

Free solo an easy climb naked--except for shoes--and not get seen.

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 31, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord
Calirado wrote:
I hope to stumble onto nude sunbathers or a couple en flagrante delictu. In 20+ years it's never happened. Free solo an easy climb naked--except for shoes--and not get seen.

obviously you have not been to Dream Canyon?

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By Calirado
Dec 31, 2009
WiledHorse wrote:
obviously you have not been to Dream Canyon?

No and I want to! But I confess I'm decidedly heterophilic in my aspirations to accidental encounters.

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By Jean Spencer
From Boulder, CO
Dec 31, 2009
climbing at avalon
Oh oh, I'd like to add mine:

1. Actually join an indoor gym so that went me fingers get cold I can still climb
2. Regularly lead (hopefully red point) 5.11s
3. Try ice climbing
4. Find a partner that like to project a little as well as explore a little.

FLAG
 
By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 31, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord
Jean Spencer wrote:
Oh oh, I'd like to add mine: 1. Actually join an indoor gym so that went me fingers get cold I can still climb

Spot Gym!

Jean Spencer wrote:
Try ice climbing

yikes! ice climbing will make your fingers cold. ;)

FLAG
By Jay Eggleston
From Denver
Dec 31, 2009
Berlin
I just want to keep going at the same pace as 2009. 108 days of climbing outside!

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 31, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord
Calirado wrote:
No and I want to! But I confess I'm decidedly heterophilic in my aspirations to accidental encounters.

damn.

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By Marc-Andre
From Squamish, B.C
Dec 31, 2009
Send a 5.13 on gear.
Send a V11 or V12
Solo a grade V alpine route
Solo a wall
Lead a WI6
Send ono of the hard free routes on the Chief in Squamish (Black Dyke, Grand Free, Teddy Bear's Picnic for example)

But most of all... be a better person and a good example of character to other people at the crags....

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By J mac
Dec 31, 2009
Zermatt
1. Quit my job.
2. Climb in as many different countries as I can.
3. Learn Espanol. (not climbing but it goes with #2)
4. Meet climbers from around the world, ie broaden my horizons
4. Not start shaking when I am 2 feet above gear.
5. More Ice (#2 will eat up all my money so unlikely)
6. Get solid at 5.10 on gear
7. Get solid on 5.12 sport
8. Get new job that allows for more climbing

FLAG
By Jean Spencer
From Boulder, CO
Dec 31, 2009
climbing at avalon
jmac wrote:
1. Quit my job. 2. Climb in as many different countries as I can. 3. Learn Espanol. (not climbing but it goes with #2) 4. Meet climbers from around the world, ie broaden my horizons 4. Not start shaking when I am 2 feet above gear. 5. More Ice (#2 will eat up all my money so unlikely) 6. Get solid at 5.10 on gear 7. Get solid on 5.12 sport 8. Get new job that allows for more climbing


you got it buddy. ! I believe in you.

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By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From Alabama
Dec 31, 2009
Starting the second section of Live to climb another day
lead 5.0 and follow 5.14!

FLAG
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Jan 1, 2010
Growing a winter coat in Red Rock Canyon- December 2013.
  • climb more on my days off (but I just bit the bullet, and bought some skis; D'Oh!)

  • avoid my non-climbing friends that pressure me into doing non-climbing activities ....."When are we going snowboarding again?" "What weekend do you want to do the sand dunes?", "The snowshoeing's great up at Charleston, right now, we should go!" "Let's go out for shots",and listen to some music", blah, blah, blah. : )

  • hopefully get my butt on some hard sport to dial in technique/ footwork, and get stronger for trad, and tolerate crowds at the sport crags. ; /

  • when I don't want to be around people, instead of going hiking by myself, I'll find some lone boulders in a beautiful remote setting to practice staying on minimal holds for long periods while placing gear, and traverse back, and forth to get smoother at shifting my body weight, and balance (low enough where I can jump down safely without a crash pad).

  • stop whining, and cursing in chimneys, especially when I'm getting stuck, and scraped up, and severely contorted.

  • eat less cookies, and bacon.

  • talk Jonny into building a climbing wall(or is it a woody?) in his backyard; he's really handy! "I'll help build it, and pay for half, sweetie!"

  • start going to the gym (non-climbing)after work, most work nights to strenghten my center of gravity, and get stronger.


Or sumpin like dat. : )

FLAG
 
By Craig Randleman
From Phoenix, AZ
Jan 1, 2010
Tossing a back flip into the Colorado River in Parker, AZ.
1. work a f'in lot less - and i only work part-time now
2. quit thinking that money has anything to do with anything
3. be a good friend and an even better husband
4. talk less - a lot less
5. listen to everyone, regardless of appearance, age, or any other nonsensical filters
6. create more opportunities to be outside

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By Andrew James C
From Portland, OR
Jan 1, 2010
Wide abgle!
1. Lead 5.11's and 12's consistently
2. Learn Trad
3. Follow a consistent training program
4. Boulder V6-7 consistently
5. Go to Moab a few times
6. Go to Bishop at least once
7. Spend some time mountaineering in the North Cascades
8. And yeah spend less time on MP
9. Not eat like crap

FLAG


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