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Gene Wilder 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Equipped by Dustin Stephens, FA by Adam Taylor 2012
Page Views: 232
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Nov 10, 2013
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Gene Wilder


This pretty golden wall hosts a technical route with a spicy run to the third bolt, some long reaches, multiple unique cruxes, and just enough holds to make it possible.

Ten feet of easy climbing on mediocre rock leads to good holds below the first bolt. Make a super long reach to a stacked two-finger pocket, and move right along some pockets to reach a poor rest below the first crux. Crimp past a miraculous series of holds on an otherwise blank wall and make a long move to a good but strange pocket. Follow the iron rock protrusions left, commit to a tenuous 3rd clip, and rest up on a large fin sticking out of the wall. Get your feet on these fins and balance past the second crux to a difficult 4th clip and a punchy move to more iron fins. Pumpy edges lead to the chains.

People below 5'8" might find some of the reaches very hard. Hence, it may be 12d for tall folks and 13a for shorties.


Right of Pure Imagination.


Bolts and a two bolt anchor.

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By Kipp Schorr
Nov 19, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

Fun route, and spot on description. Definitely would be easier for the taller folk and possibly unclimbable for someone under 5'5". Agree, heads up, but safer than it looks, 3rd clip.