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 ADVANCED
Gemstone West
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Broken Ladders  
Christian Crack 
Fin Left, The 
Flail Out 
Gemstone 
Green Snake - P2 
Pair of 4s 
Seamingly Hard 
Shoots & Ladders 

Gemstone 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 180', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Gary Hicks and Jim Fuge, June 8, 1974
Page Views: 1,995
Submitted By: George Perkins on Nov 19, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Up the dihedral on pitch 1

Description 

Pitch 1: Start up the obvious large left-leaning offwidth. Traverse left under the roof. Climb easier cracks in the left-facing corner above to a bolted anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 2: Step right and climb a left-leaning hand crack with poor feet to easier climbing (crux). Continue in the same left-angling crack system; some variations are possible. There are 2 sets of anchors at the top.

Simplest descent is one rappel with 2 ropes. It may be possible to rap the route with 1 rope, or to scramble down steep terrain to the west.


Location 

Obvious left-leaning dihedral in the Gemstone West area.


Protection 

Nuts and cams to 3", optional larger gear



Photos of Gemstone Slideshow Add Photo
Bruce Holthouse on the first pitch of Gemstone. He was climbing the route with his son. October 2009.
Bruce Holthouse on the first pitch of Gemstone. He...
Ryan having some fun on the first pitch.  This is a nice little area to relax after working through that body jam.
Ryan having some fun on the first pitch. This is ...
Seth getting through the start of the squeeze.
Seth getting through the start of the squeeze.
Richard above the roof on Pitch 1.
Richard above the roof on Pitch 1.
Comments on Gemstone Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 14, 2012
By Ryan Smyth
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 30, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The first pitch of this climb is awesome. Getting of the ground is, well, interesting. I usually get inside the crack and and wiggle around. It works. The second pitch is very intersting. I don't remember it too well because it was getting dark and i was cleaning and rushing. My leader had a hard time finding the top anchors, they're a little off to the left and hard to spot.

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

There are two separate bolted anchors near the top of the second pitch. Either works for the double rope rap-off. Both are kind of hidden as you approach the top. As mentioned above by Ryan, one anchor is quite a bit off to the left. The other is directly above, nearly in-line with main crack of the second pitch; see a marked up version of Monomaniac's photo on the Gemstone West page.

By mattb19
Oct 14, 2008

I hated the first pitch and prefer to go up Seamingly Hard instead. The second pitch was fun and had lots of options to choose from. Take a 70m rope to rap.

By Nick Manke
From: Edgewood, NM
Oct 28, 2008

The body jam in the start of the first pitch is quite upsetting to say the least (at least for my lanky ass). The second pitch is much more exciting. The start of the second pitch is a little awkward so be prepared to do some jamming.

By Asa King
From: Mountain Home, ID
Oct 19, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun climb, I'm not a big fan of the first part, I feel pretty pathetic thrashing about in that body jam.

By Brian McLaughlin
May 11, 2011

This was my first route in the Sandias in September of 85. Climbed it with Garry Wolfe from SMO. Ended up guiding it on several occasions over the next 2 years. Good route!

Once saved a guy who had hopelessly tangled his rope on pitch 1 and was looking at a ground fall from about 10 feet above the overhang. I soloed up Seamingly Hard, talked him onto some better holds and then cleared his rope tangle so his belayer could bring him on up to the belay. I continued up Seamingly Hard and then traversed over to the belay ledge. The guy was totally freaked out. After everyone had all rapped down we were walking out and one of my friends said, "Man I'm ready for a hot shower and a soft bed." I did not own a bed, and had been sleeping on the floor, so I joked about it and everyone was ribbing me about it. About an hour after I got home the guy I had saved shows up at my place with a king sized waterbed. I wound up using that bed for about 10 years.

By docsavage
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 22, 2011

If I may make a suggestion, the first pitch squeeze chimney goes stupid easy as a layback ...

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 22, 2011

Shhh....

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Dec 26, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I always thought the option for using a layback was common knowledge for the first part of P1. Are there features for protection on the way up in that mode before the corner?

By docsavage
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 3, 2012

Bill - if memory serves (big if) there's a piece low down & then it's just go for broke to the corner. Transitioning from squeeze to layback is the tricky part. After that it just feels so right ...

By Howard Snell
From: Belen, New Mexico
Jul 14, 2012

A #4 (Blue) Big Bro can be used to protect the start of the crack w/o grovelling for placements deep inside. Combined with a #6 C4 up where the outer wall of the crack develops an interior flake allowed sewwing it up nicely (yep I'm a seamster).