Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Charlatan
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Fortune T 
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) T 
Fancy Free T 
Gemstone T 
Northwest Route T 
Spooky T 
Superstition T 
Valley Guy, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Gemstone 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Herb Laeger?
Page Views: 925
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Richard Shore, Mark Collar, and Adrienne Kentner f...

Description 

Around to the right of the start of Spooky is a thin fingertips crack. Climb this to the large ledge that marks the end of Spooky's P1. This crack takes tiny to small gear (RPs, stoppers, TCUs).

From the obvious ledge, stay right and climb the left-hand side of a steep, clean arete past three bolts--strenuous!

Finish on the upper portion of Spooky. Alternately, if you choose to belay atop and around the corner from the steep arete, you can finish up the final pitch of Fancy Free.

Location 

Descend from the Djin/Charlatan notch or rappel from bolts atop Spooky to access the start of this route.

Alternately, after climbing Spooky, it is possible to rappel from the bolted anchor and TR Gemstone with a 60m rope. Directionals will need to be clipped on the bolted arete and you may wish to place a piece or two.

Protection 

Tiny to 2", 3 quickdraws, slings for knobs


Photos of Gemstone Slideshow Add Photo
Adrienne Kentner on Gemstone 5.10c
Adrienne Kentner on Gemstone 5.10c
Mark Collar following Gemstone 5.10c, at the power...
Mark Collar following Gemstone 5.10c, at the power...

Comments on Gemstone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg S.
Jul 20, 2007

I remember seeing Herb Laeger a few years ago and he mentioned that he established this route as an alternative to the offwidth on Spooky.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 5, 2009

Here is a printable topo of Gemstone from Alexander Cooper & Clint Cummins' Needles Mini Guide
By Richard Shore
Jun 11, 2012

Its hard to really know just how thin this crack is until you're up there on it. For my sausage fingers, I was happy to get TIPS in a few spots through the technical crux. Leading up to the bolted arete, I placed the following pro:

#3, 4, 5, 6 HB brass offsets
#4, 5, 6 BD Stoppers
00 Mastercam
2 X 0 Mastercam
2 x 1 Mastercam
2 x 2 Mastercam

TINY! The finger sized gear can't be placed until you're done using the holds, either. Try and save some juice for the bolted finale (power crux). It's burly, and if you got pumped trying to fiddle in dicey pro down low, you'll really have to give it your all. This is a GREAT climb, and I've never seen anyone on it.