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South Side
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Unsorted Routes:

Gemini Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McEver, David Broemel - 1973
Page Views: 9,462
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 31, 2007

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wet day


One of three routes starting from the Sentry Box Ledge, Gemini Crack is an excellent line with a thought-provoking but well-protected crux. Though officially it's a two-pitch climb, there's no good reason not to do it in one long pitch. Don't miss this classic if you're climbing the South Side.

P1 - Starting on the Sentry Ledge, climb a right-facing corner until you're just below a pair of left-angling vertical cracks on steeper ground. Move right to the cracks and follow them up and left (crux). When these cracks peter out, continue a short distance on easier terrain to a good horizontal gear belay (or to combine pitches, continue up to the anchors). 5.8, 100'
P2 - Continue up through eyebrows and some runout easier ground to the new ring anchors below the old Gemini rap tree. 5.6, 80'


Starts on the Sentry Box Ledge just left of Zodiac. An alleged 3rd class scramble (more of a 5.easy free solo) will get you to the ledge. Double-rope rap from new ring bolts just below the old belay tree gets you back to the Sentry Ledge, then a single-rope rap to the ground.


Medium gear; cams, tricams and nuts.

Photos of Gemini Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Danny seconds me on the excellent Gemini Crack.
Danny seconds me on the excellent Gemini Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gemini rap anchors...from ccc website.
Gemini rap anchors...from ccc website.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of route including twin crack crux
Top of route including twin crack crux

Comments on Gemini Crack Add Comment
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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 1, 2007

Leading Gemini was the high point of my latest trip to Looking Glass. The twin cracks section is strenuous, but there's great pro and good stances to place gear when you need them. Combining pitches makes for a nice long climb and using double ropes makes things easier.
By Rob Rives
Aug 6, 2010

Really great route, good pro, and easily linked into a single pitch. I felt this was a hair easier than First Return.
By Ryan Williams
From: London (sort of)
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think this is the easiest of the 5.8 ledge routes. Do in one pitch.
By Jeff Edge
Mar 13, 2013

Definitely gonna want two ropes to get down from this...thought we had a 70m, turns out it was 60...still not sure if 70 would get you down or not (I don't think so). But, on the bright side you can always downclimb the first 30m! (like we did, actually wasn't too hard and didn't take all that agonizingly long)
By b.t.miller
From: Charlotte, NC
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

If you're on Sentry and haven't done this route, then by all means send this. A very nice climb that is thought provoking but never precarious.

P1 and P2 really can be easily linked. In fact, if you're careful with your slings (using long slings in the right places), the rope drag is very reasonable. I believe we had about 180-185' of rope out when we reached the Gemini rap anchors at top.

P1 (and P2 linked) - After about 30-40' the initial right corner crack will fizzle out and you'll traverse climber's right to the bottom of the Gemini Crack system -- this traverse is a very cool move with slopey holds and delicate matching feet - classic Looking Glass! Once you make the short traverse, you can protect the start of Gemini. 0.4 BD slots into a climber's right horizontal beautifully. We also threw in a 0.5 BD in the right-most Gemini Crack, then put these two pieces on a sliding X and sent away! Make a couple of very fun moves in the cracks and you'll be rewarded with a solid 1.0 BD cam placement right before you pull out of the crack system. The last couple of Gemini crack moves are really cool--- there is an obvious pinch at the top of the two cracks. Use this pinch in combination with a high left foot. Pull the pincher hard and roll up on high left foot.

Once you leave the Gemini cracks, you'll see an obvious horizontal to climber's left that would eat gear for a belay (and maybe even eat you!). We just kept going to link the pitches. NOTE: gear is fairly sparse above Gemini cracks. Maybe 3-4 placements over a 90' stretch. Thankfully the climbing gods were generous with a very moderate pitch thru the runout.

GEAR: the P1 right facing corner gobbled up our Red Tricam and refused to give it back. If you're able to get it free, then enjoy the nearly new piece. Placed on 05/03/2014.
By Jed N
From: Raleigh, NC
Aug 7, 2014

Followed flake/crack up too far where it blanks out and becomes harder then 5.8. I had to down climb to start of twin cracks. If you look at route from ground prior, shouldn't be an issue.

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