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Climb the slightly overhanging double cracks via liebacks, finger jams, deadpoints, and long pulls past five bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The route is technical and sustained up to the fourth bolt and has a hard third clip.
This route is on the upper tier of Midnight Rock. It is about twenty-five feet up and right from the top of Viola, and it is the next route down and to the left of Deus Ex Machina. It is Route 19 in Rolofson's guide. The easiest approach is from the top of the rock as described in Rolofson for Dyno Mart
and Deus Ex Machina
. You can also go up Weather Report
, and then climb up to the large ledge and traverse to the right.
Bring #2 and #2.5 Friends and a large stopper to anchor the belayer.
By Peter Hunt
Aug 21, 2006
Many thanks to Dan Hare for spotting and equipping this route and also for all his great routes in Dream and Boulder Canyon.
Dec 6, 2012
Sleeper little gem of a route; good winter sun. Easy access (scramble down around the south, upper end of Midnight Rock) and a nice hang. Warm up on the 11 and 12 out right.
We had in a stopper and orange TCU for the bottom belay but there are other options. Initially feels impossible until you get your feet just so, in opposition on the twin flaring cracks. Second clip is strenuous, third clip is balancy, fourth clip you're home-free!