This small crag is located high up on the east side of rattlesnake mountain and can be seen from Stinson Lake Road. A couple of routes (11b and 10d) are a secluded from the majority of the crag; the rest of the routes at this crag range from 5.7 to 10b.
Expect to climb in the sun. Expect to clear out huge spiders. Expect to have a nice climbing experience away from the typical Rumney crowds. And oh yeah, expect a fun approach hike.
Instead of heading west on Buffalo Road, head north on Main Street (eventually turning into Stinson Lake Road) for about 2.4 miles. You'll cross over Loveland Bridge (there's a nice informational sign) and reach a small dirt pull off on the right. Keep an eye out and you can see the cliff up above.
Grab everything you'll need (water, bug spray, etc) because you won't want to walk back to the car. Cross the road and breach the roadside brush wherever easiest. Look around and you'll find small orange flags on branches that mark the trail. Some of the branches have fallen but the trail should be designated enough for you to find subsequent flags.
Pass a large boulder as you continue up the steep trailside. Be careful while you try to follow the final leg of the trail to the main cliff. 30 to 40 minutes for approach/descent is a good estimate.
An easy start leads to harder climbing following but not using much of a nice clean crack. After a hard layback/undercling move you clip the last bolt from a great jug. A crimp and a couple of strenuous moves on good holds get you up just right of the anchor.A good little route. Like many of the good routes at Gem Hunter it would get a better review if it was a little longer. Well worth doing if you are up there though. ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 28, 2010
Very hard cliff for me to find (im color blind to red/orange so the trail markers were hard to see) jakob found em for me though... really the hike would be no big deal if there was a trail...
Much of the crag is a bit crumbly, i might have added stars for solid rock... this should get better with some traffic...
overall, a good crag but i wont be back too often...
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jan 14, 2011
Agree, it's a nice place to check out for a change of scenery and to get away from the crowds while still being able to clip bolts. One thing is nice, you can go up with just a half rope and small rack of draws. The routes are short, but end up being more fun than they look for the most part..not really a place you will want to go back to often though. One and 2 star routes in a nice spot. Tim, you are nuts. 3 stars? :) We are going to have to have a 7 star grading system.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 23, 2013
The "trail" has gotten even harder to find... if anyone goes up there it would be great to bring some trail marking tape and freshen it up... i will if i go back but now that i've done all the routes i don't know if i will be up there again in the next decade...
If the trail was well marked, this would be an ideal crag to bring new climbers and initiate them to rock climbing. the routes are short and moderate in grade. That would help the Parking Lot crag and The Meadows. You can spend the day on a nice ledge with a great view over the valley. Too bad I just read Lee's comment about putting new markers on the trees to make the trail easier to follow. I will try to go for a hike on a rest day and mark the trail so its easier for people to find. I really liked the 11b and the 10d. Both have interesting moves at the top. I never encountered as many huge spiders and wasps. Luckily, both were at a slow pace.