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Sandstonia
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Zeitgeist 

Geisha Girl 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Hörst, Eric McCallister (2004)
Page Views: 2,679
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Geisha girl to left of tree. Starts up crack.

Description 

OK, so the opening crack takes gear (as do other places on the route), but that's not the local ethic, so just enjoy the nice moves. Even a hard core traddie like me enjoyed this one.

Don't let the huge roof intimidate you, it's not the crux and not even that hard.

Climb the obvious wide crack (5.7), then veer left to a small bulge and funky move (crux). Up the nice face to the overhang, then through it on huge jugs to the anchors.


Location 

At an obvious wide crack to the right of the opening block of Bobby D's Bunny.


Protection 

11 bolts + bolted anchor. 60 M rope.



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By DaveB
Apr 9, 2008

Edit: Not to be confused with Mrs. Field's Follies (5.8), which has the very nice roof finale. (Both start in the crack.)

By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Apr 9, 2008

DaveB, are you thinking instead of Mrs. Fields Follies, which has the stame start but heads right after the crack? If I remember correctly, the right hand line had a fairly large roof to surmount, but Geisha Girl's crux was lower without a huge roof.

By DaveB
Apr 9, 2008

Oh yes, my mistake. You're right, Mark, I was thinking of Mrs. Field's Follies. I stand corrected.

By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 10, 2008

Actually, they both have a roof; however, the crux of Geisha Girl is indeed lower down at a bulge. The roof is about 5.7.

By Stickman
From: Hampton, Virginia
Aug 17, 2011

Fun, long slab climbing. I'd hardly say that there is a roof on this climb. Maybe a little overhang at the 3rd bolt, but I wouldn't call that a roof.

By MikeWilkinson
From: Cortez, CO
Apr 17, 2013

Ok climb. Be sure you have enough rope, and watch out for yellow jacket nests in the ground a bit further to the right... can really ruin your day.

By steitz
From: midcoast, maine
Dec 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Climb with gear if you want to. If you want to plug pro to feel safe, do it. No-one's keeping score but you.

That being said the lower crack is dead easy and just fun.