Geisha Girl 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Eric Hörst, Eric McCallister (2004) |
| Submitted By: | Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Geisha girl to left of tree. Starts up crack.
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Description OK, so the opening crack takes gear (as do other places on the route), but that's not the local ethic, so just enjoy the nice moves. Even a hard core traddie like me enjoyed this one. Don't let the huge roof intimidate you, it's not the crux and not even that hard. Climb the obvious wide crack (5.7), then veer left to a small bulge and funky move (crux). Up the nice face to the overhang, then through it on huge jugs to the anchors.
Location At an obvious wide crack to the right of the opening block of Bobby D's Bunny.
Protection 11 bolts + bolted anchor. 60 M rope.
By DaveB Apr 9, 2008
| Edit: Not to be confused with Mrs. Field's Follies (5.8), which has the very nice roof finale. (Both start in the crack.) |
By Mark Cushman From: Cumming, GA Apr 9, 2008
| DaveB, are you thinking instead of Mrs. Fields Follies, which has the stame start but heads right after the crack? If I remember correctly, the right hand line had a fairly large roof to surmount, but Geisha Girl's crux was lower without a huge roof. |
By DaveB Apr 9, 2008
| Oh yes, my mistake. You're right, Mark, I was thinking of Mrs. Field's Follies. I stand corrected. |
By Tim Schafstall From: Newark, DE Apr 10, 2008
| Actually, they both have a roof; however, the crux of Geisha Girl is indeed lower down at a bulge. The roof is about 5.7. |
By Stickman Aug 17, 2011
| Fun, long slab climbing. I'd hardly say that there is a roof on this climb. Maybe a little overhang at the 3rd bolt, but I wouldn't call that a roof. |
By MikeWilkinson Apr 17, 2013
| Ok climb. Be sure you have enough rope, and watch out for yellow jacket nests in the ground a bit further to the right... can really ruin your day. |
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