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May 20, 2014
Uintas
Does the Geezer wall have bolted routes again or is it still trad? William Kramer
From Kemmerer, WY
Joined Jun 10, 2013
235 points
May 20, 2014
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
both Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Joined Jul 6, 2007
1,111 points
May 20, 2014
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Yep. Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,997 points
May 20, 2014
Uintas
Which routes are which? William Kramer
From Kemmerer, WY
Joined Jun 10, 2013
235 points
May 20, 2014
The ones that have cracks are trad. The one that have bolts are not. Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,668 points
May 20, 2014
Uintas
Boissal wrote:
The ones that have cracks are trad. The one that have bolts are not.


I hope you laughed when you wrote that, because I laughed when I read it.

More curious about which ones are still bolted
William Kramer
From Kemmerer, WY
Joined Jun 10, 2013
235 points
May 20, 2014
I'm not sure whether any of them are still entirely bolted. The removal and subsequent rebolting left some pretty spotty stuff... Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,668 points
May 20, 2014
Uintas
Thanks, my wife is wanting to try an easier multi pitch sport route, and I am trying to accommodate, any other areas I should look at? William Kramer
From Kemmerer, WY
Joined Jun 10, 2013
235 points
May 20, 2014
Last time i was up there - everything on the left side - like teh first 5 routes - were all bolted - they are super easy BackAtItAgain
Joined Dec 8, 2011
14 points
May 20, 2014
Uintas
BackAtItAgain wrote:
Last time i was up there - everything on the left side - like teh first 5 routes - were all bolted - they are super easy


Thanks
William Kramer
From Kemmerer, WY
Joined Jun 10, 2013
235 points
May 20, 2014
Try Mule Hollow for easy multipitchin with draws. Crossing Over at Geezer is all bolts and pretty fun. Daniel Winder
Joined Jul 13, 2009
109 points
May 20, 2014
Me scaring years off my mom's life
Rock Canyon has better options for bolted multipitches. Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Joined Apr 26, 2009
101 points
May 20, 2014
Uintas
Daniel Winder wrote:
Try Mule Hollow for easy multipitchin with draws. Crossing Over at Geezer is all bolts and pretty fun.

How bad is the hike in? Compared to Blister Hill on Olympus. If we go there it will be for trad, I have a suspicion she wants to do sport so the packs are lighter going in
William Kramer
From Kemmerer, WY
Joined Jun 10, 2013
235 points
May 20, 2014
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
Boissal wrote:
The ones that have cracks are trad. The one that have bolts are not.


I like yer humor, but some the bolted routes are really trad routes as they have trad pro placements from top to bottom.


William Kramer wrote:
Thanks, my wife is wanting to try an easier multi pitch sport route, and I am trying to accommodate, any other areas I should look at?


There are no multi pitch routes on Geezer wall they are all half pitch at best. As said Mule Hollow is probably your best bet.
Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Joined Jul 6, 2007
1,111 points
May 21, 2014
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Allen Sanderson wrote:
There are no multi pitch routes on Geezer wall they are all half pitch at best. As said Mule Hollow is probably your best bet.


Depends on the length of your rope, I suppose...but...Lower Dentures and Upper Dentures would be over half a standard 60m rope, methinks. Would be ok for trying multi pitch without the commitment of hiking all the way to Mule Hollow.

Couple of those routes on the left side of the wall have short anchors for half rope type pitches, I'm guessing. Would work for multi pitch practise.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,997 points
May 21, 2014
Daniel Winder wrote:
Try Mule Hollow for easy multipitchin with draws. Crossing Over at Geezer is all bolts and pretty fun.


Better bring some gear if ya going to mule hollow.
oldfattradguuy
Joined Aug 21, 2006
134 points
May 22, 2014
Hey William, Try the Superslab in the mouth of LCC. There are many 5.6-ish multipitch routes and a really nice view of the canyon. This current weather is perfect for up there, especially if it stays breezy. tenesmus
Joined Jan 7, 2004
2,614 points
May 22, 2014
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
tenesmus wrote:
Hey William, Try the Superslab in the mouth of LCC. There are many 5.6-ish multipitch routes and a really nice view of the canyon. This current weather is perfect for up there, especially if it stays breezy.


Hmmm...many 5.6 multi pitch routes at Super Slab. Name one?

Too...I'm not thinkin' many of the routes at Super Slab are "sport" bolted either.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,997 points
May 22, 2014
avatar
Ten is right if you assume trad and the old school lines mentioned here:
mountainproject.com/v/10603209...
zoso
Joined Jun 3, 2007
507 points
May 23, 2014
All of the green lines are old existing routes don...
All of the green lines are old existing routes done in the 70's or earlier. The yellow routes are the new bolted lines done recently. The red circles are bolted belay/rap stations.
tenesmus
Joined Jan 7, 2004
2,614 points
May 23, 2014
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Still not seeing all these "many" 5.6 routes. And, the one that's "5.6 or 5.7" is consensus rated at 5.7.

So, there's none. And, the bolt spread is such that I wouldn't offer it up for some fledgling leader trying their first multi pitch easy sport offering. Way different on these slab routes if BCC-esque type climbing is your deal.

If you like and are experienced at friction routes with well spaced bolts...then, by all means, git 'er done!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,997 points
May 24, 2014
Wait a second. Did I just try and contradict one of the masters of LCC knowledge?

pfft! What was I thinking! :)

Still, those older crack systems make it a great area for easy and generally well-protected multi-pitch adventuring.

Of course, they'll have sore calves for a week.
tenesmus
Joined Jan 7, 2004
2,614 points


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