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Geek in the Creek 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Keith Ainsworth, Dave Lindsey, Rick Leitner, 1999
Page Views: 1,551
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 18, 2001

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Description 

This is located on "The Visor" just up the hill from Surprising Crag approximately 50 feet above Frictionary. This route is the furthest right bolted line on The Visor. Ascend an easy lower section reaching the upper, more vertical section to the anchors. Getting the anchors may be the crux, reaching high to clip before making the moves may be the best, especially for someone a little shorter. It is a decent route, great for intro leaders.

Protection 

5 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Geek in the Creek Slideshow Add Photo
Jonathan Bent with a great leg / heel hook on the moves to the anchors. Sept 13, 2008.
Jonathan Bent with a great leg / heel hook on the ...
The line for Geek in the Creek - the first bolt is slightly to the left of the rope in the middle of the picture, then goes up and a bit right finishing with a couple reachy moves to the anchors, with good hands to the far right.
BETA PHOTO: The line for Geek in the Creek - the first bolt is...

Comments on Geek in the Creek Add Comment
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By mary
Jul 11, 2003

This is pretty fun and good for beginner leaders... it would be easy to reach high and clip if you are tall... but as a midget, it was a lot easier for me to clip the anchors once they were at waste level. I though my clip position was a lot more secure even if you are higher up.
By Puneet Pasrich
From: Boulder, CO
May 4, 2007

Great fun! Just below the anchors there is a solid undercling that let me reach the anchors easily.
By Nicole G
From: Oceanside, CA
Aug 1, 2010

The majority of this climb is more like a 5.7. If you aren't tall (I am 5'4"), clipping the anchors is a bit difficult because you can't just stand up and clip - find a good undercling like one of the previous posters said and toward the right for a so-so hand. You can then stand up and be close enough to get the anchors.
I don't know that I would recommend it for beginner leaders unless they are tall - in that case, definitely. Not so much for the short ones.
By E Johnson
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2012

Total waltz up to last bolt, then it became awkward 5.8. I couldn't figure out the last moves. I did not find an undercling or anything positive to get up into the final crack right of the anchors. Like the 10a to the left, it felt like the bolter must've been tall and didn't think to place anchors for average height people.