Gearhead 

Another bold ground up by the Geir man. Funky pro and iffy rock made it exciting for Geir and us in the peanut gallery.

Once it's cleaned up this should be a great route.

Proud ascent, I was spooked just following and cleaning this thing

Thanks guys. I don't think it would have been reasonable to do it ground up without Jim's work to clean the really dangerous stuff beforehand. It was spooky enough as it was.

I led this a few days ago as did Dave Kravant. We were both happy to clip the two bolts Geir placed on lead. 10- is a fair grade, protection is adequate, but this one still needs a good bit of cleanup work. An hour or so with a pry bar and a brush will make this a great mixed route. (Hint hint, Geir)

Anchors have been moved to the top of the chimney on the left.

although i got up w/out sending much down but dribble, the next guy/gal might not be so lucky. i'm a little surprised the FA would go to the trouble of bolts and anchor given the present state of choss. at this pt., still a prime candidate for pile status.

Greg,

I bothered with the two bolts so that I wouldn't die on the ground up FA. Other than that, I think you're right on the mark.

This route would require so much cleaning to make it safe that I'd just be manufacturing a route. It would be much better to take it down then leave a legacy like that behind. I'll be happy to remove it the next time I'm up there.

Geir,

Leave it up. Maybe someone will come along and clean the loose stuff off instead of just bitching about it.

I've led this twice now. I think the bit of loose adds to the climb.