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Gearhead 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: GH, AB, JSt, PP
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 394
Submitted By: Geir on Jan 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Looking at yet another loose flake

Description 

This route goes up the crack and chimney to the right of Fatmando. Tricky gear in funky rock. Andy Bennett got the first free ascent after I broke a hold and fell on the FA.


Location 

Starts about 15' right of Fatmando.


Protection 

Two bolts, stoppers, singles to 4" with extra 1-2".



Comments on Gearhead Add Comment
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By Jimbo
Jan 10, 2012

Another bold ground up by the Geir man. Funky pro and iffy rock made it exciting for Geir and us in the peanut gallery.

Once it's cleaned up this should be a great route.

By Clay Mansfield
Jan 10, 2012

Proud ascent, I was spooked just following and cleaning this thing

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 11, 2012

Thanks guys. I don't think it would have been reasonable to do it ground up without Jim's work to clean the really dangerous stuff beforehand. It was spooky enough as it was.

By Jimbo
Feb 14, 2012

I led this a few days ago as did Dave Kravant. We were both happy to clip the two bolts Geir placed on lead. 10- is a fair grade, protection is adequate, but this one still needs a good bit of cleanup work. An hour or so with a pry bar and a brush will make this a great mixed route. (Hint hint, Geir)

Anchors have been moved to the top of the chimney on the left.

By greg k
Apr 13, 2013

although i got up w/out sending much down but dribble, the next guy/gal might not be so lucky. i'm a little surprised the FA would go to the trouble of bolts and anchor given the present state of choss. at this pt., still a prime candidate for pile status.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 14, 2013

Greg,

I bothered with the two bolts so that I wouldn't die on the ground up FA. Other than that, I think you're right on the mark.

This route would require so much cleaning to make it safe that I'd just be manufacturing a route. It would be much better to take it down then leave a legacy like that behind. I'll be happy to remove it the next time I'm up there.

By Jimbo
Apr 15, 2013

Geir,

Leave it up. Maybe someone will come along and clean the loose stuff off instead of just bitching about it.

I've led this twice now. I think the bit of loose adds to the climb.