Richard Radcliffe wrote:
The Freino is a little device that helps quite a lot for the issues you describe. You can open the release handle all the way and control the rope friction by changing its angle as it comes out of the little accessory 'biner. Even with it, however, I still only use the grigri for gym, TR, and very occasionally for sport climbing when the situation is appropriate. Also, if cost is a concern, the little bugger will set back a few bux. The Freino: