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gear left on Roseland
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By Yura1985
Sep 4, 2013
Peter's Kill  <br />Golden Dream sport leading

this post turned into something completely not what i planned. thank you for those who send me good wishes


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By fatum
Sep 4, 2013

I don't think bailing off one fix pin is a safe advice at all.

Jake D. wrote:
why wouldn't you walk around to the top and rap down to get it? (or just bail off a biner on one of the fixed pins)


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By CJC
Sep 4, 2013

or just aid through the wet section

some people just don't think it through and rely on the Internet to get their gear back

it's BOOTY


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By wonderwoman
Sep 4, 2013
Wonderwoman on CCK

Jake D. wrote:
why wouldn't you walk around to the top and rap down to get it? (or just bail off a biner on one of the fixed pins)


Roseland is 3 pitches. I don't know if there is a rap at the third pitch or if it would get you anywhere near the first. I also would hesitate bailing off a pin.

That said, the OP should ask on Gunks.com: gunks.com/ubbthreads7/ubbthreads.php


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Sep 4, 2013

hm i forgot it had 3 pitches.. i only did P1 and went down from the chains. I was still thinking it was on the shorter 2 pitch section.


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By Yura1985
Sep 4, 2013
Peter's Kill  <br />Golden Dream sport leading

CJC wrote:
or just aid through the wet section some people just don't think it through and rely on the Internet to get their gear back it's BOOTY

excuse me, i did not ask for your opinion or comment, i built my anchor and lowered to the ground. this is not your business why and how i climb. i nicely ask to return my gear if smb happpens to be there. i would like you to delete your comment on my post, please


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Sep 4, 2013
Sure, I can belay

Yura1985 wrote:
excuse me, i did not ask for your opinion or comment,


I assume you don't read the MP forum regularly?


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By wonderwoman
Sep 4, 2013
Wonderwoman on CCK

Yura1985 wrote:
excuse me, i did not ask for your opinion or comment, i built my anchor and lowered to the ground. this is not your business why and how i climb. i nicely ask to return my gear if smb happpens to be there. i would like you to delete your comment on my post, please


You aren't entitled to get responses you like and, although I do hope a good Samaritan returns it, you aren't really entitled to get your gear back. Once you leave it, it is booty.

I once scored a BD #1, #.75, a pink tricam, and a few slings complete with carabiners on each piece while climbing Hotter than Hell to Inferno in North Conway. It was as if it were my birthday or something! Then I saw some poor soul posting on RC.com about having a new follower who left half his rack on the climb. We returned all his gear. I was happy to give it back, but the guy didn't even buy us a beer or anything.

So, I hope you do get it back. And if you do, buy the kind-hearted climber a beer or two.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Sep 4, 2013
Rumney

wonderwoman wrote:
You aren't entitled to get responses you like and, although I do hope a good Samaritan returns it, you aren't really entitled to get your gear back. Once you leave it, it is booty. I once scored a BD #1, #.75, a pink tricam, and a few slings complete with carabiners on each piece while climbing Hotter than Hell to Inferno in North Conway. It was as if it were my birthday or something! Then I saw some poor soul posting on RC.com about having a new follower who left half his rack on the climb. We returned all his gear. I was happy to give it back, but the guy didn't even buy us a beer or anything. So, I hope you do get it back. And if you do, buy the kind-hearted climber a beer or two.


^^^

Yura, I hope you get your gear back, but just wanted to echo the sentiments here...

That section on Roseland is notoriously slimey when perfectly dry. lol


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Sep 4, 2013
Mt. Agassiz

CJC wrote:
or just aid through the wet section some people just don't think it through and rely on the Internet to get their gear back it's BOOTY


Aid, rap, or fix a line, rap, and jug...basically anything to keep from leaving that much gear on a popular route. In other news, I hope Yura gets the gear back, if someone sees this thread.


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By Yura1985
Sep 4, 2013
Peter's Kill  <br />Golden Dream sport leading

Kevin Heckeler wrote:
^^^ Yura, I hope you get your gear back, but just wanted to echo the sentiments here... That section on Roseland is notoriously slimey when perfectly dry. lol

not being able to finish the route was my biggest failure of the day, not even the loss of the gear (which is frustrating too), the roof is totally within my abilities and i liked the climb. the whole corner was perfectly dry and that's why i chose it yesterday, but the corner and roof was dripping wet, looking like a water slide. i want to finish the climb next time i am at The Nears


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Sep 4, 2013

Kevin Heckeler wrote:
^^^ Yura, I hope you get your gear back, but just wanted to echo the sentiments here... That section on Roseland is notoriously slimey when perfectly dry. lol


hehe i think i did it in pretty ideal cold-ish conditions and still found the corner to be slick. Luckily my bouldering background helped for the traverse since it really is just one big move to a jug, forget the footwork and surf to the good stuff. Crux for me was the rope drag afterward since i didn't extend one of the pins haha 5.10 jug hauling with the drag.


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By Yura1985
Sep 4, 2013
Peter's Kill  <br />Golden Dream sport leading

Jake D. wrote:
hehe i think i did it in pretty ideal cold-ish conditions and still found the corner to be slick. Luckily my bouldering background helped for the traverse since it really is just one big move to a jug, forget the footwork and surf to the good stuff. Crux for me was the rope drag afterward since i didn't extend one of the pins haha 5.10 jug hauling with the drag.

I totally agree, i extended most of the points and was able to avoid the rope drag, then i scramble the wet part to the traverse, and as you know there is no feet plus my shoes are wet too at that point. and the horizontal crack was wet, i managed to clip the quickdraw but not the rope into it, then i slipped off. i tried 2-3 times more but already was tired. and that was the end of my climbing.


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By S. Neoh
Sep 4, 2013

I like to think of the booty thing as karma, you get some and you give back some. Over the years, I think I netted maybe 2 biners!! Hell, I give more than that away in a year now!
I agree with everything wonderwoman wrote. I hope you get your gear back and you send the route the next try.

I did the route only once, in '95. It was memorable as it was my first Gunks .9. Some sections were slick even back then, and, yes, I had the Jake experience too; massive rope drag to clip the anchors after the pumpy traverse. I imagine the route has only gotten more slick since.


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By Nick Goldsmith
Sep 4, 2013

The Booty Rulze as I was taught them about 1982.

#1 Any gear that you leave on a climb due to lack of skill, persistance or sack is booty once you give up on retrieveing it and leave the crag for the day. You get a 12hr reprive if you announce your intentions to recover your gear but you do need to be at the base of the cliff at first light. Get drunk and sleep in will result in your gear becomming booty.

#2. gear left due to inclemant weather or conditions is booty as a lack of skill was involved in the decisions that you made. you were not fast and strong enough to beat the weather or you made a poor decision regarding the weather or conditions.The mtn beat you and therefore your gear becomes booty.

#3 any gear left in a rescue or accident resulting in real (not imagined) injury is not booty and shall be left at Rock and snow/IME, the Mountainere etc. to be returned to the proper partys involved. The booty game is supposed to be fun. once someone gets really hurt it is not fun anymore.

#4 If you lose booty do not be a whiny little bitch about it. Asking for your booty to be returned is very bad karma and results in a huge loss of face. If the booty hounds offer to return your lost booty and you accept you lose major face. The proper response is. " No,You keep it, you guys earned it." If they offer to return the booty and you refuse and offer to let them keep the booty and they then, insist that, "No you go ahead and take it back we have pleanty of gear." You may then accept the return of your booty gear. You will still lose some face but not too bad. At this point you need to offer them a libation to ease the shame.

The current trend of not even attempting to recover your own lost gear and headding straight home to whine and cry on the internet demanding the return of your lost booty is absolutly pathetic and shamefull!


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By CJC
Sep 4, 2013

Nick has it right.

Pearls of wisdom. Write 'em down, noobs.


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By Nick Goldsmith
Sep 4, 2013

A few of the finer points/rulz in scoreing Booty.

When you encounter Booty on a lead if the leader wants to keep the booty they must clean the booty and rack it. Once the booty has been racked the leader may then place the booty as protection farther up the pitch (only if you Really trust the honesty and integrity of your 2nd) At the end of the day the booty gear will then reside with the leader. If the leader fails to clean the booty gear and the 2nd cleans the booty gear the Booty shall remain in the possesion of the 2nd.


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By Greg Berry
Sep 4, 2013

I always wondered who was the first to get some booty?


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By kemple sr.
Sep 7, 2013

Nope, leader keeps booty. Second's job is to get ALL the gear out. That said, it never hurts to use those leading skills and make sure that piece comes out easily.


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Sep 7, 2013
Mt. Agassiz

kemple sr. wrote:
Second's job is to get ALL the gear out.


...all of the leader's gear, not other gear. Booty is not the leader's gear until said leader racks it.

As a second, if my leader told me that a "fixed" piece he/she couldn't get out in a couple tries was his/hers, and I spent some good time working on it, I'd laugh at them.


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By Nick Goldsmith
Sep 7, 2013

Agreed. if the leader wants the booty they must clean the piece and then place it again or rack it. if the leader is in a hurry and dosent bother to clean it or can not spend the energy to clean it then the 2nd gets to score the booty if they can.


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By Kalil Oldham
From Brooklyn, NY
Sep 7, 2013
At the Harry Daley Base, Yosemite Valley.


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By kemple sr.
Sep 8, 2013

I was playing the booty game long before cams were invented. I have scored more than 40 cams and hundreds of biners and passive gear. The leader is the one at risk, booty is his reward for sucking it up to lead that pitch. If he wants to give it to the second, or back to its original owner, that is up to him. He is the leader after all. That said, it is a game and if your leader is foolish enough to play by your rules..........

PS: Have you heard "The Booty Song"? I think it is by O'Dub. Cool tune about scoring a blue camalot!


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By Nick Goldsmith
Sep 8, 2013

We did a lot of stupid stuff BINTD. One of the rules was the leader rapped first with a back up and the 2nd had to clean the back up and rap from the horrid fixed anchor. It's a kinder and gentler world now;)


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