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Gear Head 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,739
Submitted By: Alex A on Jun 3, 2009

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Gear Head.

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  • Description 

    The classic looking dihedral left of Air Head, stem, lieback, a bolt protects the last part, the guidebooks says 5.10a, but more like 5.9-, You can top rope it, off Air Head anchors, clip bolt, but bring some gear and lead it, just wish it was longer.


    It is left of Air Head.


    Light rack, nuts, small cams to #2 Camalot, one bolt.

    Comments on Gear Head Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Mar 13, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Good climb. If you bring a trad rack jump on this. Definitely easier than 10a, but I would give it a solid 9, if not 9+.
    By 419
    From: Denver
    Sep 4, 2011

    This crack zips up real nice with nuts and cams #0.3-#2.

    No need for TCUs or the bolt.

    The flake on the arete between Gearhead and Airhead is very loose.
    By Jonathan Stickel
    From: Golden, CO
    Dec 19, 2015

    A fall traversing from the bolt to the anchors could be bad as the rope runs along the sharp arete. Happened to me today, and my rope took some sheath damage. I had a piece in after the bolt; maybe it helped.

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