Gear anchors in Acadia--which gear?

Hi there,
This question is about setting up TR anchors in Acadia.

My friend and I will be flying across country to Maine, and want to get some climbing in, but probably just TR. My friend doesn't want to schlep his whole rack on the plane, but I hear the only anchor options there are gear anchors. Does anyone have any tips on what to bring?

Thanks!

Depends. Where do you want to climb? Otter? Great Head? I believe everything at Great Head has bolt anchors. Otter is another story. Some nice boulders to sling for some routes on the right side (jumpers right). Otherwise you are using mostly cams. Seem to remember lots in the mid range #.5 - #3. Single rack would suffice nicely.

Some routes at Otters have Staples to tie off to. . . Great Head has some bolted anchors too...

Why not try reading up on the different routes on MP and see what's out there?

ROC wrote:Depends. Where do you want to climb? Otter? Great Head? I believe everything at Great Head has bolt anchors. Otter is another story. Some nice boulders to sling for some routes on the right side (jumpers right). Otherwise you are using mostly cams. Seem to remember lots in the mid range #.5 - #3. Single rack would suffice nicely.

At Otter Cliffs C4s .5-3 and a static line is all you need. Know how to belay from the top or plan your bottom managed climbing around the tide schedule.

Great; thanks all!

Yes we planned at climbing at Otter cliffs. Great Head looks nice, but my climbing ability may not be up to the task. I'll def look up the individual routes at Otter and see if there is additional anchor info.

So--if we plan on belaying from the top, we don't have to worry about the tides? Thanks!

Edubs wrote:Great; thanks all! Yes we planned at climbing at Otter cliffs. Great Head looks nice, but my climbing ability may not be up to the task. I'll def look up the individual routes at Otter and see if there is additional anchor info. So--if we plan on belaying from the top, we don't have to worry about the tides? Thanks!

My sense is that the Wonder Wall/Dare by the Sea area stays mostly above water unless it's a particularly high tide or rough sea. Definitely a lot more options if you time your visit during the low tide part of the day.

Edubs, I sent you a link to over 100 shots of Otter Cliffs. You should be able to get some idea of what's up there. A few shots of gear anchors, too.

There's a staple and a few bolts around Wonder Wall - A Dare by The Sea. Otherwise it's gear or sling/thread boulders. You are not allowed to sling trees.

Edubs,

If you go to the retail location of Alpenglowgear/Acadia Mountain Guides you can purchase a pocket guide to Otter Cliffs for $4 if I remember correctly. If you're only accessing the climbs from above it will help quite a bit.
If you have some spare change laying around you might also consider this:
Groupon Guides Discount
We used it for a guide who took us to the Precipice/Mt. Champlain for some single pitch cragging, and then we did our toproping ourselves at Otter.
The guide was well worth the expense (Try to tip them well considering the savings!)

wivanoff wrote:Edubs, I sent you a link to over 100 shots of Otter Cliffs. You should be able to get some idea of what's up there. A few shots of gear anchors, too. There's a staple and a few bolts around Wonder Wall - A Dare by The Sea. Otherwise it's gear or sling/thread boulders. You are not allowed to sling trees.