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Gatsch 
South Pillar 

Gatsch 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ruedi und Werner Gatsch
Season: Spring through autumn
Page Views: 104
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Dec 27, 2011
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Gatsch: traversing along the crack in the lower ha...

Description 

A moderate yet very interesting "semi-trad" route with highly varied climbing.

Pitches go at 5c, 6a-, 5a, 5a, 6a, 5b.

Another route begins just to the left of Gatsch and shares the first belay. Although more difficult (6a), it is recommended to climb this instead of the unpleasant intro chimney of Gatsch.
From the first belay, the Gatsch route ascends diagonally to the left along a nice crack line, and then back to the right along another good crack. Don't be deceived by a line of bolts ascending directly from the anchor - this belongs to another route. Different sport routes cross Gatsch in the third and fourth pitches as well - just keep to the obvious, crack/chimney system (both pitches have only one bolt on them).

Consult the plaisir-ost guidebook for a topo.


Location 

The first pitch of the route ascends a chimney / corner system 10-20 meters to the right of the South Pillar route.

It is possible to descend by abseil from one of the neighboring sport routes. To descend by foot, head west after topping out on a small footpath. The path leads back around to the south slope and along the base of the wall.


Protection 

All anchors are bolted, and there are bolts where gear placements are sparse to nonexistant (in particular the face / slab climbing sections). A full assortment of cams and stoppers is recommended.




Photos of Gatsch Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch three of Gatsch (5a) - entertaining and suprisingly demanding for the grade.
Pitch three of Gatsch (5a) - entertaining and supr...
Gatsch, pitch five (6a) - the signature pitch of the route... the crack is sinker, and the grass is not disturbing.
Gatsch, pitch five (6a) - the signature pitch of t...
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