Gateway Drug  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Mike Perkins, Clay Watson New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  tenesmus on Jul 1, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Mike rapping down when we finished bolting this in...

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Description 

This is directly below White Lines and although not as committing, it gets you into the feel of steep granite climbing, making an excellent warm for projects above.


From the little belay ledge, scramble up to the short, steep and very juggy mini-hedral trending up and right with jugs, supplemented by slopers and crimps. Make your way to the teeny little pine tree and then cut back left on the super fun sloper rail that turns the lip to the chains.

Location 

Right of SPF 50 by 20' is Death of a Monarch. Scramble up the 5.7x terrain to a small flat ledge about 10' below the steep mini-hedral/crack that starts the climb. You can see the bolts from the ground in the darkest part of the black streak.

Protection 

yellow, orange, red-sized TCU's or .3, .4 and .5 camalots to get you to the bolts and then a #1 camalot with a long runner for the middle piece.

Photos of Gateway Drug Slideshow

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the rap.

Looking down Tanners Jan '12.