Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Booty Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
36 Yarrgs T 
Back That Ass Up Traverse T 
Captain Hook T 
Crystal Left T,S 
Death of a Monarch T 
Gateway Drug T,S 
Heisenberg T,S 
Pirate Treasure S 
Scallywaggers T,S 
Straight to Rehab S 
Under Pressure S 
White Lines T,S 
X Marks the Spot S 
Unsorted Routes:

Gateway Drug 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Perkins, Clay Watson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,002
Submitted By: tenesmus on Jul 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Topo for Gateway and Straight to Rehab. They each ...


This is directly below White Lines and although not as committing, it gets you into the feel of steep granite climbing, making an excellent warm up for projects above.

From the little belay ledge, scramble up to the short, steep and very juggy mini-hedral trending up and right with jugs, supplemented by slopers and crimps. Make your way to the teeny little pine tree and then cut back left on the super fun sloper rail that turns the lip to the chains.


Right of SPF 50 by 20' is Death of a Monarch. Scramble up the 5.7x terrain to a small flat ledge about 10' below the steep mini-hedral/crack that starts the climb. We added a 2-bolt belay on that ledge. You can see the bolts from the ground in the darkest part of the black streak.


yellow, orange, red-sized TCU's or .3, .4 and .5 camalots to get you to first the bolts, then a #1 camalot with a long runner for the middle piece and one more draw for the final bolt. 2-bolt/chain anchor.

Photos of Gateway Drug Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gateway Drugs is the line where it says 'project' ...
Gateway Drugs is the line where it says 'project' ...
Rock Climbing Photo: the rap.
the rap.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down Tanners Jan '12.
Looking down Tanners Jan '12.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike rapping down when we finished bolting this in...
BETA PHOTO: Mike rapping down when we finished bolting this in...

Comments on Gateway Drug Add Comment
Show which comments
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Jun 26, 2013

Long slings for the anchors will greatly reduce the drag for the belayer for the 2nd, or if setting up a TR, which is really easy. about 55 inches from the chains to the edge.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!