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This is directly below White Lines and although not as committing, it gets you into the feel of steep granite climbing, making an excellent warm for projects above.
From the little belay ledge, scramble up to the short, steep and very juggy mini-hedral trending up and right with jugs, supplemented by slopers and crimps. Make your way to the teeny little pine tree and then cut back left on the super fun sloper rail that turns the lip to the chains.
Right of SPF 50 by 20' is Death of a Monarch. Scramble up the 5.7x terrain to a small flat ledge about 10' below the steep mini-hedral/crack that starts the climb. You can see the bolts from the ground in the darkest part of the black streak.
yellow, orange, red-sized TCU's or .3, .4 and .5 camalots to get you to the bolts and then a #1 camalot with a long runner for the middle piece.
Looking down Tanners Jan '12.
Gateway Drugs is the line where it says 'project' ...
|By greg t|
Jun 26, 2013
Long slings for the anchors will greatly reduce the drag for the belayer for the 2nd, or if setting up a TR, which is really easy. about 55 inches from the chains to the edge.