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 ADVANCED
Booty Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back That Ass Up Traverse T 
Crystal Left T,S 
Death of a Monarch T 
Gateway Drug T,S 
Heisenberg T,S 
Pirate Treasure S 
Scallywaggers T,S 
Under Pressure S 
White Lines T,S 
X Marks the Spot S 
Unsorted Routes:

Gateway Drug 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Perkins, Clay Watson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 537
Submitted By: tenesmus on Jul 1, 2012

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Looking down Tanners Jan '12.

Description 

This is directly below White Lines and although not as committing, it gets you into the feel of steep granite climbing, making an excellent warm for projects above.


From the little belay ledge, scramble up to the short, steep and very juggy mini-hedral trending up and right with jugs, supplemented by slopers and crimps. Make your way to the teeny little pine tree and then cut back left on the super fun sloper rail that turns the lip to the chains.


Location 

Right of SPF 50 by 20' is Death of a Monarch. Scramble up the 5.7x terrain to a small flat ledge about 10' below the steep mini-hedral/crack that starts the climb. You can see the bolts from the ground in the darkest part of the black streak.


Protection 

yellow, orange, red-sized TCU's or .3, .4 and .5 camalots to get you to the bolts and then a #1 camalot with a long runner for the middle piece.



Photos of Gateway Drug Slideshow Add Photo
Mike rapping down when we finished bolting this in January '12.  The line is directly behind him.  I tried to make a topo but the program I'm using isn't saving right.
BETA PHOTO: Mike rapping down when we finished bolting this in...
the rap.
the rap.
Gateway Drugs is the line where it says 'project' in green and ending at the anchors above.
Gateway Drugs is the line where it says 'project' ...
Comments on Gateway Drug Add Comment
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By greg t
Jun 26, 2013

Long slings for the anchors will greatly reduce the drag for the belayer for the 2nd, or if setting up a TR, which is really easy. about 55 inches from the chains to the edge.