Matt Kuehl on Harsh Width. Feb 2012
|Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>|
Gateway Crag is situated partway up along the north side of Kraft Mountain. A traditional crag oriented around crack climbing. This crag is a good location if you're looking to try some harder cracks and/or not go sport climbing at Sunny & Steep. For a good day out do the 3 popular routes at Winter Heat and then cut over to this crag and do these two. The crag faces northeast and doesn't get much sun.
This crag can be approached from either west or east via Gateway Canyon.
From the west: From the Kraft parking lot head northwest towards Yin & Yang. Pass Yin & Yang and drop down into the wash and follow the wash past Sunny & Steep, Winter Heat, etc. Boulder hop until you've almost reached Cannabis Crag. Look up and you'll be able to identify a very prominent roof. Follow cairns up the mountain until you're directly below the roof.
From the east: From the Kraft parking lot head east towards the Monkey Bar boulder. Pass the Monkey Bar boulder and drop into Gateway canyon. Follow the wash until just past Cannabis crag. From here look to the south (up the mountain) and you should be able to identify the prominent roof. Follow cairns and a rough trail to the base of the roof.
Climbing Season For the Calico Basin area.
Weather station 0.2 miles from here
2 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Gateway Crag
Horizontal Departure 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b NV
: Red Rock
: ... : Gateway Crag
The roof crack you've spied from the wash looks a lot harder than it actually is. However, it's a fun climb and offers good jamming, good protection and a good view of Gateway Canyon. Start up the chockstone filled chimney until you reach the finger crack. Place some pro and pull a few chimney moves until you're right under the intimidating roof. From here the feet disappear but the jams and finger locks are solid. Move out towards the lip of the roof and pull out from under it. A belay can be b...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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