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 ADVANCED
Sunshine Face - Right Side
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Bukatude 
Buttress Chimney 
Drain Pipe, The 
First Pitch 
Gates of Delirium 
Golden Oldies 
Hesitation 
Hesitation Direct 
Iron Cross 
Ishi 
Last of the Mohicans 
Moondance 
New Generation 
Nirvana 
Quiet Desperation 
Race With The Devil 
Red Rain 
Sidewinder 
Stretch, The 
Sundance 
Sundance Arete 
Sundike 
Valhalla 
Voodoo Child 

Gates of Delirium 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro and Richard Leversee, 1976
Page Views: 333
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008
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Description 

The first pitch is the meat of this route, and is quite popular. The second pitch is not as good and is seldom done.

Pitch 1: Hard face climbing leads past 4 bolts (11c past the first 2) and ends on the Drain Pipe ledge at a tree. On the first ascent of this pitch, Tony pulled so hard on holds that he was bleeding under his fingernails.

Pitch 2: Climb straight off the ledge to gain a left facing corner. Follow the corner (10c) past one bolt and gear placements. From the top of the corner it is possible to move left to the Euphoria flakes, or continue up and right past another bolt to a belay.

Pitch 3: Follow cracks up to the base of Paisano Pinnacle.


Location 

Far left side of the Sunshine Face proper.


Protection 

Thin to 2.5".



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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 12, 2008

I bled under my nails on this one too! Only on two though- must have had stickier shoes than Tony !