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 ADVANCED
Sunshine Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bukatude T 
Buttress Chimney T 
Drain Pipe, The T 
First Pitch T 
Gates of Delirium T 
Golden Oldies T 
Hesitation T 
Hesitation Direct T 
Iron Cross T 
Ishi T 
Last of the Mohicans T 
Moondance T 
New Generation T 
Nirvana T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Race With The Devil T 
Red Rain T 
Sidewinder T 
Stretch, The T 
Sundance T 
Sundance Arete T 
Sundike T 
Valhalla T 
Voodoo Child T 

Gates of Delirium 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro and Richard Leversee, 1976
Page Views: 408
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Gates of Delirium

Description 

The first pitch is the meat of this route, and is quite popular. The second pitch is not as good and is seldom done.

Pitch 1: Hard face climbing leads past 4 bolts (11c past the first 2) and ends on the Drain Pipe ledge at a tree. On the first ascent of this pitch, Tony pulled so hard on holds that he was bleeding under his fingernails.

Pitch 2: Climb straight off the ledge to gain a left facing corner. Follow the corner (10c) past one bolt and gear placements. From the top of the corner it is possible to move left to the Euphoria flakes, or continue up and right past another bolt to a belay.

Pitch 3: Follow cracks up to the base of Paisano Pinnacle.

Location 

Far left side of the Sunshine Face proper.

Protection 

Thin to 2.5".


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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 12, 2008

I bled under my nails on this one too! Only on two though- must have had stickier shoes than Tony !
By dnaiscool
Aug 19, 2014

Anyone who leads this route needs to think of the fact that Tony Yaniro was only 14 years old when he led the FA...Fourteen!!!! Tony was always way ahead of his time, and his routes do not get downgraded.