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Gatekeeper Wall
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Gatekeeper Crack T 
Locksmith Dihedral T 

Gatekeeper Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2-

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 700', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2- [details]
FA: Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Owens - Oct. 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring & Fall
Page Views: 2,060
Submitted By: bsmoot on Feb 24, 2008

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Following the 4th pitch - C2
Photo by D. Jones
Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ascend the clean, excellent crack system behind the pillar for 6 steep aid pitches to the top. There is a small bivy ledge (1 lying down) on top of pitch 4. We only placed 6 pins on this otherwise clean route, of which we highly recommend. Faster parties can do this route in a day.

With a few more ascents, this route will certainly go hammerless.


Location 

Begin 40' right of Locksmith Dihedral behind a prominent 200' pillar.


Protection 

  • One #00 TCU
  • Three each #0 - #1 TCU
  • Four each #2 - #3 TCU
  • Two #.75 Camalot
  • Three #1 Camalot
  • Four each #2 - #3 Camalot
  • One #3.5 Camalot
  • Two #4 Camalot
  • One #4.5 Camalot
  • Two #5 Camalot
  • Four KB
  • One LA
  • One 1/2" angle
  • Nuts
  • Micro Nuts
  • Sliders
  • Hook
  • 60m ropes



Photos of Gatekeeper Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Following the steep last pitch.
Chris Following the steep last pitch.
Dave leading the steep last pitch.
Dave leading the steep last pitch.
Gatekeeper Crack follows the right line.
BETA PHOTO: Gatekeeper Crack follows the right line.
Down on P4
Down on P4
Topo
Topo
From the Summit
From the Summit
Comments on Gatekeeper Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron S
May 24, 2010

Anyone know if this one has gone clean yet?

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Sep 7, 2010

Completed in one day, on Labor Day 2010. Few notes;

P2 goes free at hard 5.10 with SMALL gear. (mulitple grey TCUs)
One talon hook is all that is needed mid P4, if you can topstep like a mofo you dont need it.

Mandatory free move topping out P4 (The Pucker Step!)

We place 4 pins on P6. WILL NOT GO CLEAN YET (but soon)

Good route and Location, pretty straight forward aid climbing,


Gear, triple set smallest thing you own to red camolot, double set yellow to number 4 camolot. One 4.5 or New 5. Two were usefull but not neccesary. No big greem cam. Nuts, A few LA or KB