Ascend the clean, excellent crack system behind the pillar for 6 steep aid pitches to the top. There is a small bivy ledge (1 lying down) on top of pitch 4. We only placed 6 pins on this otherwise clean route, of which we highly recommend. Faster parties can do this route in a day.
With a few more ascents, this route will certainly go hammerless.
Begin 40' right of Locksmith Dihedral behind a prominent 200' pillar.
- Four each #2 - #3 Camalot
Dave leading the steep last pitch.
Down on P4
Following the 4th pitch - C2
Photo by D. Jones
Chris Following the steep last pitch.
From the Summit
|By Aaron S|
May 24, 2010
Anyone know if this one has gone clean yet?
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Sep 7, 2010
Completed in one day, on Labor Day 2010. Few notes;
P2 goes free at hard 5.10 with SMALL gear. (mulitple grey TCUs)
One talon hook is all that is needed mid P4, if you can topstep like a mofo you dont need it.
Mandatory free move topping out P4 (The Pucker Step!)
We place 4 pins on P6. WILL NOT GO CLEAN YET (but soon)
Good route and Location, pretty straight forward aid climbing,
Gear, triple set smallest thing you own to red camolot, double set yellow to number 4 camolot. One 4.5 or New 5. Two were usefull but not neccesary. No big greem cam. Nuts, A few LA or KB