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Gatekeeper Wall
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Gatekeeper Crack T 
Locksmith Dihedral T 

Gatekeeper Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2-

Type:  Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 700', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2- [details]
FA: Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Owens - Oct. 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring & Fall
Page Views: 2,391
Submitted By: bsmoot on Feb 24, 2008

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Following the 4th pitch - C2 Photo by D. Jones

***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Ascend the clean, excellent crack system behind the pillar for 6 steep aid pitches to the top. There is a small bivy ledge (1 lying down) on top of pitch 4. We only placed 6 pins on this otherwise clean route, of which we highly recommend. Faster parties can do this route in a day.

With a few more ascents, this route will certainly go hammerless.


Begin 40' right of Locksmith Dihedral behind a prominent 200' pillar.


  • One #00 TCU
  • Three each #0 - #1 TCU
  • Four each #2 - #3 TCU
  • Two #.75 Camalot
  • Three #1 Camalot
  • Four each #2 - #3 Camalot
  • One #3.5 Camalot
  • Two #4 Camalot
  • One #4.5 Camalot
  • Two #5 Camalot
  • Four KB
  • One LA
  • One 1/2" angle
  • Nuts
  • Micro Nuts
  • Sliders
  • Hook
  • 60m ropes

Photos of Gatekeeper Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Following the steep last pitch.
Chris Following the steep last pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave leading the steep last pitch.
Dave leading the steep last pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gatekeeper Crack follows the right line.
BETA PHOTO: Gatekeeper Crack follows the right line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Down on P4
Down on P4
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: From the Summit
From the Summit

Comments on Gatekeeper Crack Add Comment
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By Aaron S
May 24, 2010

Anyone know if this one has gone clean yet?
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Sep 7, 2010

Completed in one day, on Labor Day 2010. Few notes;

P2 goes free at hard 5.10 with SMALL gear. (mulitple grey TCUs)
One talon hook is all that is needed mid P4, if you can topstep like a mofo you dont need it.

Mandatory free move topping out P4 (The Pucker Step!)

We place 4 pins on P6. WILL NOT GO CLEAN YET (but soon)

Good route and Location, pretty straight forward aid climbing,

Gear, triple set smallest thing you own to red camolot, double set yellow to number 4 camolot. One 4.5 or New 5. Two were usefull but not neccesary. No big greem cam. Nuts, A few LA or KB

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