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Gate Buttress

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Beckey's Wall Area 
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Gate Buttress 


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Lat, Long: 40.5733, -111.7533 Map Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 2, 2007
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Description 

Gate Buttress contains the most popular crags in Little Cottonwood. Routes range from easy 5th class to impossible-to-believe-humans-could-climb-it lines.

See an oblique aerial view here.


Getting There 

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.


85 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',30],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',11],['5.8',17],['5.9',16],['5.10',16],['5.11',13],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gate Buttress:
Schoolroom   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Schoolroom Area
Beckey's Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   Beckey's Wall Area
Schoolroom West   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Schoolroom Area
Schoolroom Direct Variation   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Terror   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Beckey's Wall Area
Bushwhack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Schoolroom Area
Callitwhatyouplease   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Schoolroom Area
Satan's Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Dihedrals Area
The Hook   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Torture   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Beckey's Wall Area
Fingertrip Variation   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Beckey's Wall Area
Half-A-Finger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
Equipment Overhang Right   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
The Flakes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   East Gate Buttress
Black and White John and Mary   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
Stem the Tide   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Dihedrals Area
To Air is Human   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   East Gate Buttress
Mind Blow   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R     Trad, 170'   Schoolroom Area
Equipment Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 70'   Dihedrals Area
Split Fingers   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 145'   Beckey's Wall Area
Browse More Classics in Gate Buttress

Featured Route For Gate Buttress
Tingey's Torture Red is preferred route, Green is variations and blue is funky ass squeeze chimney that we got off route on.  "O" is natural anchors

Tingey's Torture 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Beckey's Wall Area
Tingey's Torture has some more pitches to do after climbing Tarzan and Tingey's Terror. I did some interesting variations (by accident), but I will describe what the real route is!P1 & P2) Climb Tarzan or Sweet Jane.P3 - P6) Climb Tingey's Terror.P7) From the trees, continue up the crack system to a V formed by to wide cracks. Some fixed pro climbs up the face to the right of the two cracks. Take your pick of a few good ledges for a gear anchor.P8) Several options. Most straight forward is a...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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