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Gate Buttress

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Beckey's Wall Area 
Dihedrals Area 
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Gate Buttress  


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Location: 40.5733, -111.7533 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 2, 2007
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The powerful beginning lieback moves of B and W, J...

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Description 

Gate Buttress contains the most popular crags in Little Cottonwood. Routes range from easy 5th class to impossible-to-believe-humans-could-climb-it lines.

See an oblique aerial view here.

Getting There 

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

87 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',41],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',11],['5.8',17],['5.9',16],['5.10',17],['5.11',14],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gate Buttress:
Schoolroom   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Schoolroom Area
Beckey's Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   Beckey's Wall Area
Schoolroom Direct Variation   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Terror   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Beckey's Wall Area
Hatchet Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Schoolroom Area
Schoolroom West   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Torture   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Beckey's Wall Area
Callitwhatyouplease   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Schoolroom Area
Bushwhack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Schoolroom Area
Satan's Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Dihedrals Area
Fingertrip Variation   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Beckey's Wall Area
Half-A-Finger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
Equipment Overhang Right   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
The Flakes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   East Gate Buttress
Black and White John and Mary   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
Stem the Tide   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Dihedrals Area
To Air is Human   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   East Gate Buttress
Mind Blow   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 170'   Schoolroom Area
Equipment Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Dihedrals Area
Split Fingers   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 145'   Beckey's Wall Area
Browse More Classics in Gate Buttress

Featured Route For Gate Buttress
Kim Miller leading with a fine swiss watch, Mark Ward belaying with long hair and a full beard. <br /> <br />Mid 70's  <br /> <br />Pic may be reversed.

Mind Blow 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Schoolroom Area
Mind Blow is two pitches; the first pitch contains the .10d crux, and ends after you roll up onto the lower-angled slab above the lip (use small- to medium-sized nuts or cams to set up a gear belay in the groves/cracks leading to The Hook).The second pitch (.9) moves up past two bolts and ends at the belay at the base of The Hook. Rap 80' from here to the pitch one anchors for Bushwhack Crack, then about the same to the ground.This line was drille...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Gate Buttress Add Comment
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By choppinBolts
Sep 11, 2014
Who could we write thank you notes to for allowing this area to be open to climbers? How can we build this relationship even more?
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 22, 2014
The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance