A majestic dinosaur fin of rock dividing cantons of Fribourg and Bern. This rugged-looking range ("without guests") is home to some great sportaneering, long adventurous routes which happen to be well-protected by bolts. At around 1800 m and with most of the climbing on the SE-facing east side of the range, it seems to stay warm while offering views glaciers on the Bernese Oberland.
The long range has many peaks, many faces, and several access points. Planning ahead for what routes to aim for is essential. The best guide book, Gastlosen.ch, divides the range into zones, with areas defined by individual peaks within these zones, and then even sub-areas within that. Plaisir West offeres a simplified version of the topography and would be adequate for a short trip.
The rock is limestone, with long sections of thin, angular tufas shaped by rain. Very cool texture. Pockets, spine-shivvering slabs, and steep blocky sections all make appearances.
It would be tough to make a visit without a car. Drive to the town of Jaun, at the north end of the range. Just east of the town is the village of Kappelboden with two roads leading south. One bends to the west for the less-popular NW side of the range (signs to Chalet du Soldat), the other to the east for the SE side (sign to skilift).
Car camping is easy at the parking spots marked on the map. At the Oberi Bire spot (parking III) at least there is even running water via a cow trough.
Climbing Season For the Switzerland area.
Weather station 6.2 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Gastlosen
Elsa 6c 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Europe
Elsa is characterized by technical slabby moves on small crimps which are occasionally non-existent. Although the climbing is awesome, the bolt placement occasionally makes the route artificially more challenging. The route is very well bolted and although there are a few other bolted lines on the face it's pretty hard to get lost.P1+2 6a:Slab moves broken up by ledges that are a little chossy. Pitch 2 finishes at a sizeable ledge.P3 6b:There are a few different routes with belays at this ledge...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Gastlosen limestone texture
From: Golden, CO
Aug 25, 2015
The NW side of the range boast many high quality sport routes (both single and multi-pitch) that serve as a great retreat from the heat in the summer time. Get an early start and climb in the shade until 2pm. More info is found in the Extrem West guide.