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East Fork Valley
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Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Steve Arsenault, Charlie Fowler, and Mike Munger, 1977
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,134
Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 1, 2009

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Hanging in August 2009 East Fork Valley with the A...

Description 

Finding this route is not a problem for the Winds due to its distinctive appearance, but route finding up high on the route may be somewhat tricky as essentially one encounters no fixed gear up this long line. We did the route in 9 long (every pitch >50m) pitches. Very sustained and complicated by lots of grass hummock filled hand cracks leaves one to ponder how rarely this classic for the area gets ascended.

The last strenuous pitch is a pump! It is testament to the Arsenault Fowler team strength that rated it a mere 5.9!!

Location 

Gash Peak is North Ambush or the high point immediately to the north of Ambush. a very committing route once high, descend on the ridge line to the saddle just south of Ambush back to the East Fork Valley.

Protection 

Full set of Camalots from C3 to #5 ad set of nuts. Some piton belays found low on the route. Arsenault told me up in the cirque that he always carries a hammer with a few pins on Ambush...mostly to refix the ones in situ, however, you won't find many pins on this route.


Photos of Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Somewhere on the Golden dihedral in the 1980's
Somewhere on the Golden dihedral in the 1980's
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit shot
Summit shot

Comments on Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral Add Comment
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By stephen arsenault
Sep 22, 2015

I climbed this route on Labor Day with my daughter's boyfriend, who leads 5.13.

There was an offwidth/squeeze chimney section, ( about 10 feet)on the 3rd or 4th pitch, in the dihedrals, which we both felt was 5.10. I've done the route 3 times,and don't remember problems in the past, but at 69+, I'm feeling my age, and thought I would add this comment.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route follows right skyline
Route follows right skyline
By Tim Wolfe
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 10, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

I thought this was a great route. I am surprised so few comments exist. Classic line, great climbing, good cracks, good gear in stellar alpine wall. I have no idea what the rating would be now in the new millineum - seemed about right for the grade at the time but I don't recall what it was rated back then. I have always found a (+) rating harder than the grade above (-) rating so 5.9+ would then have implied sustained, pumpy climbing while 5.10- tended to have one hard move but little sustained - but that is just my impression from the past.
By stephen arsenault
Jun 28, 2016

Tim,

Glad you liked the route. I know more than a few people who have climbed this route. Unfortunately, near the top, after traversing the dihedrals, where the ramp system ends, at the big ledge, there are no obvious clues as to where to go.
We didn't put any fixed pro. on the route, and Charlie Fowler had that lead.

There are perhaps 5.9 face moves leading up and slightly left, off the ledge, and then you trend up and right. On the 1st ascent, I remember really clean
pitches from there, to the top, but last year, we missed the final good pitches by perhaps going too far right, where the rock becomes loose.

The only advice I can give to future climbers is to avoid going too far right near the top; although the climbing becomes easier, there is much loose rock, the further you go right.

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