Garrett's Revenge 

Well guys, I think we messed up. After climbing this route recently, Darren and I laughed that we rated this route 11a. Oops. We spent over a month developing this section of wall and working out the lines so we had every move wired. The route is much harder than 11a, more like 11++ or so. We did not mean to sandbag anyone, it just felt much easier at the time. I apologize to anyone who was whipped by the mis-rating.

However, this pitch is STELLAR: improbable roof, continuous and devious face, direct and distinct line, and unbelievable position. The roof is the definite crux and may be easier for tall people and those who know the sequence, it is also safe even if you blow the clip.

For doing the whole route from the ground to top, you only need 12 Qds and Aliens green to red.

It is possible to lower from the anchors atop the GR crux pitch back into the Ashtray belay. You must use a QD to tram down the rope back into the Ashtray because of the large roof, and because of this roof it is not possible to rap back into the Ashtray. This avoids the bush exit and the scramble to the other anchors and there are fewer raps. There will be a lot of drag for the toprope but it improves once the follower pulls past the crux. Then do one Double-rope rap to the ground and watch for loose rocks. This way is simpler and much faster.

This climb is in a beautiful spot and has a classy feel, all too rare in this oftentimes grid-bolted-fluffy-graded canyon. The approach pitches are fun and interesting. Gotta say it seemed crazy-hard for 11a, specially given its location in CCC. Pulling over the roof is inobvious and pretty stiff, with an interesting clip. Very cool. Also like how the routes on this wall actually seem to have vaguely realistic grades.

Thanks for putting this one up, nice work!

Classic route! Good job Darren..