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Garrett's Revenge 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: D.Mabe and C.Bernal
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,138
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jan 25, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Updated topos of some of the stuff on mission.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

EDIT (8/05):

P1 and P2 of Ride the Snake. (Link these pitches) 5.8-5.9.

P2. make a short downward traverse (4th class, 2 bolts) left to a set of anchors on the slab. Garrett's Revenge starts from here. (You can actually link with first pitch)

P3. chase several bolts up steep 5.9-5.10 to a roof. Pulling over the roof is the crux (11+). Continue on sustained face past another half-dozen clips to anchors on a ramp. This makes for about a 150' pitch total (likely the longest in CCC). Your belayer can see you the for the whole pitch!

P4. follow another 4 bolts through the green arete/roofs to the left (5.10).

Protection 

About 16 quickdraws, 2-bolt belays.
Not recommended to rap... traverse Surette and rap the Rocketman.


Photos of Garrett's Revenge Slideshow Add Photo
Billy The Kid and Garrett's Revenge from Wall of the '90s.
BETA PHOTO: Billy The Kid and Garrett's Revenge from Wall of t...

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By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 19, 2003
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Well guys, I think we messed up. After climbing this route recently, Darren and I laughed that we rated this route 11a. Oops. We spent over a month developing this section of wall and working out the lines so we had every move wired. The route is much harder than 11a, more like 11++ or so. We did not mean to sandbag anyone, it just felt much easier at the time. I apologize to anyone who was whipped by the mis-rating.

However, this pitch is STELLAR: improbable roof, continuous and devious face, direct and distinct line, and unbelievable position. The roof is the definite crux and may be easier for tall people and those who know the sequence, it is also safe even if you blow the clip.

For doing the whole route from the ground to top, you only need 12 Qds and Aliens green to red.
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Dec 8, 2003
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

It is possible to lower from the anchors atop the GR crux pitch back into the Ashtray belay. You must use a QD to tram down the rope back into the Ashtray because of the large roof, and because of this roof it is not possible to rap back into the Ashtray. This avoids the bush exit and the scramble to the other anchors and there are fewer raps. There will be a lot of drag for the toprope but it improves once the follower pulls past the crux. Then do one Double-rope rap to the ground and watch for loose rocks. This way is simpler and much faster.
By Anonymous Coward
May 12, 2005

This climb is in a beautiful spot and has a classy feel, all too rare in this oftentimes grid-bolted-fluffy-graded canyon. The approach pitches are fun and interesting. Gotta say it seemed crazy-hard for 11a, specially given its location in CCC. Pulling over the roof is inobvious and pretty stiff, with an interesting clip. Very cool. Also like how the routes on this wall actually seem to have vaguely realistic grades.

Thanks for putting this one up, nice work!
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2005

Classic route! Good job Darren..